With the much-anticipated Rebel Woman currently in the works (to match the adorable Girls Rebel), we wanted to help you on your way to a super successful dress. That said, this post is all about the darts! Darts are crucial to getting the fit right in women’s garments made from woven fabrics. Sewing a successful dart isn’t hard, but it does require a couple of small details to get it just right. Are you ready to learn? Great! Let’s get started!
Sewing a Successful Dart
The first step to success is to make sure you accurately transfer all markings. I typically do this by creating a small hole at the point of the dart to make that mark. I then mark the wide ends at the raw edge. Once that’s done, take a straight edge to draw a line from the edge to about 1 inch away from the dart point.
Once that’s done, take a straight edge to draw a line. Bring it from the edge to about 1 inch away from the dart point.
Starting the Sew
Pin the fold so that the fabric won’t move around while you’re sewing. Then sew with your regular straight stitch the length of the line you drew. Stop about 1 inch away from the folded edge and the dart point.
Here’s where the little tricks come in. Most people will just keep sewing right to the edge. Don’t do that. With your needle stopped, shorten your stitch length to 1 mm. Continue sewing at a slightly narrower angle toward the edge with the shorter stitches. Sew straight to and OFF the edge of the fold. Do not backstitch! The tighter angle and lack of backstitching are what will give you a nice even dart without a pucker!
Tip: Some sewists like to cut those end threads a little longer and tie them by hand. However, this is not necessary as the stitches should hold without that knot if you don’t want to tie it.
And that’s it! Beautiful darts every time! Try it now and let us know how they turned out in the comments below or in our Facebook group! We’d LOVE to hear from you!