Gabriella’s Sew Along Day 7 – Bag Lining, Hem Sleeves, and Turn Right Side Out
Welcome to Day 7 of the Gabriella’s Winter Coat Sew-A-Long! Are you all caught up? Day 5 was a mid sew-a-long catch up day. If you need to go back, here is where you can find Day 1, Day 2, Day 3, Day 4, and Day 6.
Today we will bag the lining of the coat, hem the sleeves, and turn the whole thing right side out. This will be steps 27-34 in the pattern instructions. We’re entering the home stretch of the sew-a-long!
Bagging the Lining
Bagging the lining is steps 27-29 of the pattern instructions.
Begin the process of bagging the lining by aligning the front facings and neck of the lining right sides together with the main coat. Sew directionally from the back of the neck down on each side of the facing. Note that the last half inch along the bottom of the front facings will be left unsewn.
Go slowly over bulky seams. If you have both a hood and a collar, the ends of the collar will be the most difficult seams to pass. Make sure that you make your turn immediately past this seam.
With right sides together, align the bottom of the hem facing with the bottom of the front facing. Tuck the excess lining fabric down between the two facings to create a pleat. Sew the two facings together with a 1/2″ seam allowance making sure that you are not sewing through the main coat layer too.
Note that the main layer is not pinched up here. Only sew through the hem facing, lining pleat, and front facing.
Make sure to end your sewing 1/2″ from the raw hem of the coat so you do not pass the seam line there. You will be stitching in the ditch of the lining while creating this seam.
There will be a gap between your sewing lines. That is alright. It is simply a result of the technique.
Repeat this process with the opposite end of the hem facing.
Align the hem facing with the bottom raw edge of the main coat. Pin and sew to secure. The main coat and lining will now be completely enclosed aside from the ends of the sleeves. Cut triangles from all convex corners and clip triangles into all concave corners.
Clip along the entire hem curve and grade all seams.
Hemming the Sleeves
This is steps 30 & 31 of the pattern instructions.
Pull all 4 sleeves so they are inside out. Take one main sleeve and fold the end towards the wrong side a couple of inches but do NOT press. This will now be inserted into the end of the corresponding lining sleeve. Make sure that neither sleeve is twisted and match up the seams and notches. Sew around carefully with a 1/2″ seam allowance. The sleeves should now form a continuous donut shaped tube. Repeat with opposite set of sleeves.
Turning the Coat Right Side Out
This is steps 32-34 of the pattern instructions.
Using your seam ripper, remove the stitches from a section of the lining of the coat.
Use this gap to pull your coat right side out. Reach in and grab the collar to pull through first, then pull each sleeve all of the way through. The rest should come through easily after this. Use a tool such as knitting needle or chop stick to push out all of the corners. Pull out and nicely press the coat, making sure you get all corners, sleeves, and curves.
Slip stitch the gap in the lining closed then affix the main and lining layers of the coat at the underarm seams.
That’s it for today! Please post a picture like the one above on the Day 7 thread in the Facebook group in order to participate. Check back in tomorrow for Day 8 when we will add the finishing touches to our coats!
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