The FREE Pants Fitting Guide You Can’t Live Without

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Nothing strikes fear in a seamstress’ heart more than the thought of having to sew a pair of perfectly fitted pair of pants or shorts! Let’s face it, unless you have the “ideal” standard body (does this even exist?), you are probably going to need to make a small alteration or two to get a perfect fit.  Lucky for you, we created this handy cheat sheet to help you know exactly what alterations you need to do.

The Pants Fitting Guide You Can’t Live Without

There is no shame in needing a small alteration to the pattern.  We are all built a little different, and that’s what makes each of us awesome. But, what if you think alterations are scary? Or what if you don’t know where to start? That’s where this handy guide comes in.

Getting Started

We are going to get started with some easy ones and then move on to some harder one. The first thing you need to do is measure yourself and choose your size based on your hip measurement on the measurement chart.  It is very important to ignore your ready-to-wear size completely.  Just like Old Navy and J. Crew have a completely different size structure, so do sewing patterns.  Also, it’s important to pick the size you really are, not the size you think you are. I’ve seen a lot of fitting issues that are easily resolved just by picking the right size.

These first adjustments I generally recommend to do before you sew anything. Every sewing pattern should provide a given height that the pattern is drafted for.  For example, our ladies patterns are drafted for a 5’5″-5’7″ height.  If you are 5’10”, you are going to know right out of the bat, that you are going to need some extra length. Another good thing to look at are the finished garment measurements.  You can use these measurements along with your own personal measurements to estimate just how much of an alteration you need to do.

Alteration Key

Use the key above when using this guide.

Longer Torso

If you have a longer torso, you are going to need more rise. To do so, slash the pattern and add however much extra length you need. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Shorter Torso

If you have a shorter torso, you are going to need less rise. To do so, slash the pattern and overlap the pattern in the amount you need to shorten. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Longer Legs

If your inseam is longer than the pattern’s, you are going to need more length in the legs. To do so, slash the pattern and add however much extra length you need. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Shorter Legs

If your inseam is longer than the pattern’s, you are going to need more length in the legs. To do so, slash the pattern and overlap the pattern in the amount you need to shorten. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Smaller Waist

If your waist is smaller than your hip in the measurement chart, you can adjust the waist by blending to the size you fall in the waist. Keep in mind, if you are sewing a simple elastic waist short/pant, sometimes it is easier to just adjust the elastic width. If your waist is significantly smaller than your hip, you may be better off choosing a Flat Tummy Adjustment below.

Wider Waist

If your waist is larger than your hip in the measurement chart, you can adjust the waist by blending to the size you fall in the waist. Keep in mind, if you are sewing a simple elastic waist short/pant, sometimes it is easier to just adjust the elastic width. If your waist is significantly larger than your hip, you may be better off choosing a Full Tummy Adjustment below.

Want More? Download Our Pants Fitting Guide!

 

Now I could list a TON more here in this post. But instead, I created this handy PDF download for you!  This way, you don’t have to refer back to the page all the time (but still, Pin it for future reference!) Head to the form at the bottom of this post, to have even more adjustments (like Sway Back, Buttock Adjustments and many others) sent directly to your email!

So confession time, what pants adjustment do you normally have to do? Are there any we didn’t cover here or in the guide that you would like to see? Let me know in the comments!

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

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Have you ever looked at a pattern and thought a really cute lace or pom-pom trim would look fabulous on it? Not sure how to accomplish that? Let us help you! Today, we’re bringing you a tutorial on how to add any of these embellishments to any hem! It might just add the perfect touch to those Tess Tulip Shorts (in Ladies and Girls sizing!) that you’ve been eyeing.

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

While this might seem like a tricky thing, it’s actually pretty simple. And once you’ve done it once or twice, you’ll be a pro at adding trim to just about any pattern in your arsenal to make it extra special!

Step One: Create a Memory Hem

Using the pattern’s instructions, fold your hem and iron it in place, creating creases where the hem will eventually be. In the case of the Tess Tulip shorts, that hem is two 1/4″ folds, pictured.

Step Two: Place and Pin Trim in Place

With the hem folded, place your trim (here, my lace) where how you would like it to lay on the wrong side of the garment. Carefully unfold the hem and pin the lace (or pompoms or ricrac) in place through a single layer of fabric. The trim that will be peeking from beneath your hem should be pointed toward the main body of your garment. Carefully sew along the edge of your trim through the single layer of fabric. These stitches will keep it perfectly in place for the final step.

Step Three: Adding the Hem

Now that you have the decorative part in place, the rest is easy peasy. Just fold along the creases you created in step one and stitch into place like you normally would! I personally love lace but have seen some amazing pom-pom and ric-rac added to hems for some phenomenal pieces as well. Be creative! Have a blast! And make everything beautiful and uniquely yours!

The Dos of Pattern Testing

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Pattern testing is a huge part of getting a great fitting quality pattern on the market. To get the patterns perfect, designers depend on awesome testers. Those testers test fit, read and follow directions for clarity and mistakes, and provide the designer with valuable feedback. If you’ve ever thought about testing, read this so you’ll know exactly what to do. (And if you haven’t read our list of Don’ts from last week. You should give it a peek, you won’t regret it.)

The Dos of Pattern Testing

Only sign up if you can commit & don’t forget to read the pinned post.

Pattern designers depend on reliable testers who can complete the work in a certain time frame. Sometimes those time frames are tight. Sometimes you will be required to sew multiple versions. The first (or second) draft might have minor (or major) fit issues. That is the nature of testing, as it takes trial and error to get it just right. Before you commit to testing a pattern, make sure you know the time and fabric expectations and are ok with it. The pinned post typically houses all of these expectations with other important information, so don’t skip it, read it!

Always sew the size you were assigned and blend if needed.

Almost all pattern designers are very intent on getting their fit “just right” for their listed measurements. This accuracy depends on YOUR accuracy in sewing the correct size, which means blending sizes if the designer requests it. A successful pattern brand depends on a consistently good fit. Pattern testers are a key force in ensuring that happens.

Read and follow the directions exactly.

Another very important part of testing is in making sure the directions make sense and don’t have any typos. As such, most designers ask that you do a complete read through of the tutorial before ever touching a piece of fabric or pair of scissors. Make note of any glaring mistakes and ask about any steps that seem out of order or don’t make sense before you begin. Also, do NOT alter the pattern design in any way outside of the size blending and follow directions to a tee. Only by following pieces and construction EXACTLY will any problems be found. Any information you gather during the construction will provide some much-needed information for the designer to perfect the pattern before its release.

Give detailed feedback.

Don’t be afraid to nitpick. A great pattern designer will use those notes to the benefit of the pattern. “Don’t sweat the small stuff” doesn’t apply to pattern testing. Sweat it. Mention everything, and I mean everything. You never know what might be important to the overall fit and design. Trust me, the designer wants to hear it all.

Take good fit pics, it’s crucial!

Considering most testing is done by people all over the world, fit pictures are crucial to getting pattern dimensions just right. A clear uncluttered background is great. A blank wall is even better. The model should stand straight, square to the camera for a front shot. It is recommended to take pics with arms out as well as arms down to get the best idea of fit in tops and dresses. It is also very helpful to the designer to get those same poses from the side and back. The more they can see, the better any alterations will be. Another handy tip- If your model has long hair, make sure that hair is out of the way in each shot.

When you post your fit pictures, overshare.

Every piece of information you have, you should state with the fit pics. Again, there is NO such thing as too much information when it comes to pattern testing. Things you definitely want to state are the size you sewed (including any minor alterations or size blending you did), the type of fabric you used, the model’s measurements (including height), and any perceived fit issues you find once the garment is finished and being worn. Anything can be used to improve the pattern quality, so let it all out!

Be polite within the testing group.

You will likely get comments on your questions and pictures from the designer, their admins, or other testers. You might not agree with all of the opinions, but it is important to the environment of the group that it stays a happy and positive place. Comments to criticisms can always be made in a polite manner. Just try to keep it civil. Pattern designers don’t usually like rude testers. Happy and kind makes for a much more supportive and helpful group.

Always use an iron.

Final pictures should always include a freshly pressed garment. Those pictures should convey a professional finished look to the piece with wrinkles gone so everything lays pretty and any knit seams laying flat instead of wavy. A good iron is one of your best friends when it is time to show off your finished work.

Phenomenal final pictures are always welcome!

Not everyone has access to a professional camera or photographer, but that doesn’t mean great pictures are out of your reach! Many phones today have fantastic cameras and can take pretty great pics.

There are a few key tips to taking great final pictures. The model’s clothes should be pressed nicely and the model should be clean and styled. Neatly brushed or styled hair and a few accessories never hurt, as long as it doesn’t take away from the garment. Natural light is your friend and is the best light for picking up detail. Just don’t stand in direct sunlight! Indirect light is your best bet. Find a clear uncluttered background. Nature makes a beautiful backdrop, and as long as your garment isn’t green, it should stand out nicely. Other good options are tall wooden fences or pretty front doors. Just make sure your model (and the product) pop in front of it.

 

If you follow these tips, you’ll find yourself asked to test again and again! And I don’t know about you, but I always feel amazing helping a designer release a perfect pattern. And you can say “I helped with that!” It’s a great feeling.

The Don’ts of Pattern Testing

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Pattern testing is a mildly annoying step in the mass production of PDF patterns. The faster the designer can shove them out, the better (for them). But if you ever take time out of your busy schedule to test, there are some things that just aren’t worth your time to mess with. This list will help you by informing you of what NOT to waste your time with.

The Don’ts of Pattern Testing

Don’t worry about deadlines or the pinned post in the testing group.

Pattern designers don’t really care how long you take or if you read the pinned post. Deadlines and pinned posts are only there for show. Take your time and do it your way. Besides, the line at Starbucks was WAY too long for you to start on time anyway.

Don’t worry about the size you were assigned and NEVER blend sizes!

The assigned sizes are just a suggestion. Everybody knows that. Sew what you want. And under no circumstance should you ever blend sizes. Sewn garments should always fit in straight sizes. I mean, you never see blended sizes in the department stores, do you?

Don’t even look at the instructions.

Instructions are just more suggestions, like the assigned sizes. Get your pieces together and sew them how YOU think they should go together. It should work out just fine. Your finished garment will be fabulous, no matter what, because you did it yourself!

Don’t give feedback, ever.

The pattern designer knows what they’re doing, that is why they are the designer. Feedback is not necessary. Feedback will probably just get them cranky unless it’s all sunshine and roses, and it never is. You just do you, and let them worry about their own stuff.

Don’t bother with good fit pictures.

The designer just needs a general idea, so blurry pictures on a moving target are just fine. Your kid doesn’t need to stand still and it doesn’t matter how cluttered your house is. They’ll get more than enough from a blurry cluttered pic if that’s what you can manage.

Don’t interact or bother with politeness in the group should you engage.

Members of the testing group don’t need to talk to you. They don’t need your input. And feel free to snap at them if they keep pestering you. They don’t know you. They don’t know your life. And why are they so nosy? They don’t deserve nice.

Don’t give any information that wasn’t asked specifically of you.

The pattern designer will ask you anything they NEED to know. Unasked for information is something you should never feel obligated to give. It isn’t any of their business what size you sewed or the fabric you used. And if you ran into any fit problems, the designer will see that in your fit pictures, if you decided to provide them.

Don’t use an iron.

Do irons even exist in the wild anymore? Only 50’s tv sitcom moms ever used them. So what if your finished piece is wrinkled? People walk around in wrinkled clothes every day. Why should this be any different? It’s just reality.

Don’t worry about getting pretty promotional shots.

Promo shots. Not necessary. But should you decide to grace them with a few, don’t worry about focus. If the pattern is good enough, the focus won’t matter. If you’re testing a pattern for yourself? Bathroom selfies are so IN right now! Especially ones in dirty mirrors that haven’t been cleaned since ’93. So artsy! Don’t worry about it with kids patterns, though. Getting a child all dressed up in perfectly pressed clothes in a field of daisies skipping and smiling is never going to happen anyway, so why bother? The camera is not your friend. IF you can get your kid clean and dressed… The camera will never catch the smile of a child, it’s impossible. And that field of daisies? It’s 50 miles away. Ain’t nobody got time for that.

 

**This post was written for entertainment purposes only. It is satire and should not be taken seriously.**

**P.S. Pictures are used with permission from the seamstresses they belong to. We would like to extend a very warm thank you to An Staute, Danielle Oliver, Jessica Reynolds, Laurie Roberts, and Michelle Ryan for their amazing sense of humor and willingness to show us the less glamorous side of pattern testing.**

8 Specialty Feet That Will Change Your Life

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Have you ever wondered about all of those weird sewing machine feet you’ve seen or hear people talking about? Ever wondered what they do? If they’re worth the money or time to try them out? Here is a list of our FAVORITE specialty feet and how they will change your sewing life forever!

8 Specialty Feet That Will Change Your Life

 

    • Pintuck Foot

      Use a pintuck foot with a twin needle and will help create perfect pin tucks. Heirloom or vintage style clothing often have pintucks. They add beauty, texture, and interest to many different kinds of pieces.

    • Invisible Zipper Foot

      This invaluable foot is used in the installation of invisible zippers. While it is possible to sew an invisible zipper without this foot, you will be amazed at how much easier it is WITH it. You’ll never want to sew an invisible zipper without one again!

    • Teflon/Non-stick Foot

      A Teflon foot is an amazing thing if you sew with any fabrics of the “sticky” variety. Vinyl and laminated fabrics are two good examples. This foot will allow the fabric to pass through with ease where it would get hung up or stuck under a regular foot.

    • Rolled Hem Foot

      Use a rolled hem foot to create narrow hems with delicate fabrics such as chiffon, cotton voile, and silks. It can be a little difficult to get the hang of, but worth it. It will make beautiful hems in much less time when sewing with these types of fabrics.

    • Ruffler Attachment

      Do you hate making ruffles? Then this is what you need! The ruffler attachment will gather the fabric for you as you sew with ease. This is on my personal want list, and I can’t wait to get my hands on it. My little girl LOVES ruffles.

    • Adjustable Binder Foot

      Use an adjustable binder foot to fall in love with using bias tape for hems and finishes! It will allow you to line the binding up and sew right down the outer edge perfectly. It’s a game changer. A definite must for woven sewists.

    • Patchwork/One-quarter Inch Foot

      This foot is most commonly used in quilting, but is also great for little things like doll or pet clothes. Basically, anything with a 1/4″ seam allowance. This is the foot that makes lining up that 1/4″ a piece of cake. You’ll never use another foot for those tiny seams again!

    • Walking Foot

      A walking foot is an absolute dream for sewing with all things knit! This foot is designed to provide a second set of feed dogs above your fabric to help feed it through evenly and prevent unneeded stretching. The walking foot will make for beautiful flat knit seams every time, so if you’re a knit sewist and don’t have one, you should look into it!

 

Did you know there were so many cool sewing machine feet for your sewing machine? Which one can you not live without? Let me know in the comments!

*All Amazon links in this post are affiliate links. That means if you purchase something when clicking that link, we get a very small percentage which keeps this blog going. That being said, we only link to products that we actually use and recommend. 

 

Top Ten Things Every Seamstress Wants

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Today we’re going to explore some super handy (and some little known) tools that (almost) every seamstress would LOVE to have in their arsenal of tools. Of course, there are SO many out there, it would be hard to name them all. These are the top ten on my personal list. We’ll also be including links to most of these products for your shopping convenience. You know, in case you see anything you think you can’t live without. Please feel free to comment with some of your sewing wants and needs to add to our list!

Top 10 Things Every Seamstress Wants

1. Gingher Dressmaker Shears– Gingher is fairly top of the line when it comes to sewing tools. The scissors are ridiculously sharp and maintain that sharpness well, making cutting through just about any fabric a breeze. It doesn’t hurt that they can also be very pretty.

2. 36″x24″ Self-healing Cutting Mat– Cutting mats are WONDERFUL tools to have. And in this case, bigger really is better. A large cutting mat will allow you to cut out larger patterns without having to reposition the fabric and pattern multiple times, especially if you’re sewing adult sized garments. I’m operating with a smaller mat right now, but I WILL be buying a larger one soon!

3. 45mm Contour Rotary Cutter– This ergonomically shaped rotary cutter is much easier on the joints while also allowing you a little more control. I cut all of my patterns with a rotary cutter now. There is a slight learning curve in figuring out how to cut those curves. And it is definitely worth the time it takes to figure it out. I save so much time cutting now because of my rotary cutter!

4. Bias Tape Makers– If you sew with wovens often and/or use bias trim, this is a MUST have! You can make bias trim out of anything in your fabric stash to perfectly match your project! Definitely a nice touch with a more professional finish for your projects.

5. Sewing Machine Specialty Foot Set– You can never have too many specialty feet! These sets typically come with 30+ different specialty feet for any occasion. They will include things like an invisible zipper foot, ruffle foot, adjustable bias trim foot with a bunch of others. Definitely worth a look! (And keep an eye out for a future blog post going over our favorite specialty feet and what they do!)

6. Magnetic Seam Guide– Such a small thing that can make a HUGE difference in your quality of work, especially if you’re newer to sewing. This handy little piece sticks to your metal plate to help you perfectly guide your fabric through, making it worlds easier to achieve a perfectly straight seam or hem

7. Hemming Clips– Another small thing that packs a huge punch! These handy little clips can be bought in sets of 12 and will help you create the perfect hem every time. Another thing in my near future wishlist!

8. Nippers/Trimming Scissors– These are something I use ALL the time. Most people think of them as embroidery scissors, but I find them SO much easier to use for cutting threads than a large more cumbersome pair of scissors. They also don’t take up near as much room next to your sewing machine.

9. Thread Stand– If you often sew your projects with fabric matching threads, this is a fantastic tool for keeping things organized and tidy. They come in different sizes to hold different numbers of spools and are perfect for regular sewing or embroidery threads. And while you buying this, you can grab a handy bobbin storage solution too!

10. Adjustable Dress Form– If you sew for yourself, a dress form is so great to have in your space. You can get ones that are adjustable or purchase one that is just your size. It’s perfect if you’re an aspiring designer, just love playing with draping fabrics, or even just to “try things on” without having to undress and redress yourself so often. It’s an investment, but a worthy one!

Well, that brings me to the end of my list, but please add your favorite current or wishlist sewing items to our comments and join our amazing Facebook community to share BSD related projects, questions, and triumphs! We’d love to have you!

*All Amazon links in this post are affiliate links. That means if you purchase something when clicking that link, we get a very small percentage which keeps this blog going. That being said, we only link to products that we actually use and recommend. 

Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing

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Last week we went over some basic woven fabrics that are commonly used in garment sewing (you can read all about it here). This week, we’re bringing you the knits! Knits, as a general rule, are a little trickier to work with because of the stretch factor, but they can also create some of the most comfortable and beautiful pieces of clothing imaginable once you get the hang of it. So don’t be afraid! Read up, and try your hand! Just don’t forget your ballpoint needles, use lots of pins, and start SLOW! You’ll be sewing knits like a pro before you know it!

Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

The Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing

 

Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  1. Cotton Lycra/Cotton Spandex

    This is one of the more common types of knit around, especially with the explosion of custom knit small businesses in the last few years. These can range in weight/thickness from print to print, so make sure you check what you’re getting. It has a 4-way stretch, which makes it great when it’s a non-directional print because you don’t have to worry AS much about the pattern placement. Mid weights (10-12oz/yard) are usually a really nice weight for sewing with and wearing year-round. Lighter can work well for summer wear, but will be a little harder to work with and heavier will make nice cold weather gear. With it’s typically great stretch and recovery, this is a perfect choice for Ladies or Girl’s Sahara dresses!Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  2. Cotton Jersey

    Typically a lighter weight knit with a 2-way stretch, this is a common staple in making things like t-shirts. In fact, it’s perfect for the Ladies or Kids Reagan Raglan! It will typically be a little more slippery compared to the cotton lycra due to its lighter weight, but with lots of pins, it can make some pretty amazing things!Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  3. Liverpool

    This one is really nice for durable and beautiful women’s clothing. Liverpool is a cross between a double knit and a crepe, which means you get the stretch and durability of the double knit with the beautiful texture of the crepe. It’s an absolutely perfect choice for some of the more fitted women’s knit garments like our newly released Amelia! You can find it in a wide array of gorgeous prints… I’ve seen some of the most beautiful florals ever printed on Liverpool.Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  4. Viscose Rayon

    Being lightweight and delicate, this will be one of the more challenging knits on this list to sew. Also, you will want to keep in mind that being a man-made fiber, it will not breathe as easily as natural fibers will. This makes it best for garments from fall to spring, as summer wear will likely induce excessive sweating. It is a lovely fabric, though, and definitely worth a mention here.Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  5. Cotton Interlock

    A fully natural fabric, this can be comparable to the cotton lycra in weight, although it will only have a 2-way stretch (side to side) and often won’t have the same kind of recovery that the lycra provides. One of the huge upsides of this fabric is it’s sustainable but also a good choice for all seasons. It is also a type that you can find in a HUGE array of colors and prints, so you can usually find just what you’re looking for.Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  6. Sweater Knit

    Another tricky customer, but definitely worth the effort, sweater knit is unique in that it can come in a wide variety of fabric contents. It’s basically like someone did a ton of knitting, leaving just flat fabric behind for you to sew with. Sweater knit is typically monotone, striped, or heathered in various colors. It’s great for making fall and winter wear, like long-sleeved shirts or cardigans. In fact, Maggie would be adorable in a sweater knit.Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  7. Fleece

    Fleece is a heavy-weight polyester knit with a 2-way stretch. You can often find it made into things like blankets, but it can also make awesome garments like jackets, sweaters and car seat ponchos. Being a man-made material, it does a good job of blocking wind and keeping the warmth in. This makes fleece PERFECT for winter wear items.Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  8. Sweatshirt Fleece

    Like regular fleece, this is ideal for cold weather clothing. It has a smooth outer side and a fluffy inner side, although, you can flip those sides when sewing if you so choose. This often doesn’t have a ton of stretch, so make sure the patterns you choose for this fabric have a lot of ease built in!Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  9. Rib Knit

    This is a specialized knit with very obvious ribbing running through it. It is great for things like neck bands and shirt cuffs. Rib knit can also be used for full garments as well. While this is most often found in solid colors, you can occasionally find it in some prints as well.Top 10 Knit Fabrics for Garment Sewing - Knits always confuse me, so this is such a handy guide!

  10. Nylon Spandex/Swim Knit

    This is another specialized knit used primarily in the making of fitted bathing suits. Another type of fabric that might be used in a similar capacity is Polyester Spandex. Keep in mind, polyester does not hold up as well to the chlorinated water as nylon does. Both of these types of knits are also used regularly in the making of active or workout wear such as leggings, fitted tank tops, sports bras, etc. Just take extra care when sewing with these as they are very slinky and slippery and can be difficult to work with. I recommend extra pins and taking your time.

Some of the pictures in today’s blog were provided by Sincerely Rylee. They happen to be an AMAZING source for knits in the sewing community! Make sure you check out her shop and her facebook group!

Also, don’t forget to join our group for answers to your questions, support, or just to show off some of the amazing BSD projects you’ve made! And be on the lookout for some AWESOME knits for yourself or your little so you can join our Sahara sew along starting next week! Are you ready???

 

Know Your Needles! And the Fabrics They Go With.

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There are many different types of needles out there. In this post, you will learn the 5 most common and most used in garment sewing, as well as the fabrics and projects they are best suited for.

Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

Know Your Needles! And the Fabrics They Go With

Ready? Let’s get started!

 

Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  1. The Universal Needle.

    You can use this needle across a variety of woven or knit fabrics, from a mid-weight to a fairly lightweight without too much of an issue. If you’re just starting out and practicing, this might be a good choice for you as they are also sometimes a little less expensive than some of the other varieties. But they will also not always produce as beautiful as a result depending on the other aspects of the project, such as thread and fabric choices.Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  2. The Sharp or Microtex Needle.

    These needles have a much sharper point and narrower shaft than other needles. This makes it ideal for lighter weight or more finely woven fabrics like silk, satin, faux suede, and microfiber. It also helps enable perfectly straight stitching which makes it perfect for things like topstitching, edge stitching, and pintucks (which we at Bella Sunshine LOVE to do!)Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  3. The Ballpoint Needle.

    Ballpoint needles are made for knits! Their points are rounded, which allow them to slide through the fibers of the fabric without breaking them. This keeps the integrity and stretch of the fabric intact. They also provide the ability to produce more even stitching on coarser knits (interlocks, cotton spandex) as well as preventing damage to more fragile knits (spandex, brushed polyester) that might snag or run more easily).Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  4. The Denim Needle.

    Denim needles are designed thick and strong with an extremely sharp point. This needle is perfect for powering through thick, tightly woven fabrics such as denim, duck, and canvas. They are also ideal for going through many layers without breaking. In garment making, these would be most commonly used for making winter coats (like Gabriella’s) and heavier jumper dresses or pants.Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  5. The Twin or Double Needle.

    Double needles are two needles connected to a single shaft. Their purpose is to mimic a cover stitch, or parallel finishing stitch. This gives the garment a more professional look when completing a garment.

 

We hope you’ve found this helpful and that maybe you’ve learned a little something! If you have any questions about this, please feel free to visit us in our Facebook group here or ask in the comments below and we will do our very best to help! Now that you know about needles, be sure to look at the differences in fabric types. We’ve broken fabrics down into wovens and knits.

10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit

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If you’re here, we assume you sew or want to, and that’s great! Sewing is so much fun! A great way for some to relax, to add some uniqueness to a wardrobe, to expand a wardrobe, to decorate your home… there are SO many reasons people do it! But there are some very common across the board tools that EVERY person will need, no matter the project, and that is what this post is for! So, without further ado, here are our top must-have tools for any home sewist.

10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit

 

10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  1. A sewing machine.

    Do you need a top of the line, it practically runs itself machine? Psshh… nah. Are they nice to have? Of course! But I started out with a low-end Walmart special machine when I started and those projects are still holding up today. As long as you are using it right, the machine does not matter a bit. (well, I wouldn’t buy those handheld machines or child-sized ones, but, you get the idea.)10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  2. Machine feet

    Most commonly used feet (for apparel sewing) are the regular foot, buttonhole foot, and zipper foot. Most all machines will come with all 3 of these feet and we will have tutorials on using different types of feet at some point in the future. 10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  3. Extra machine needles

    ALWAYS a good idea. No matter how careful you are, needles WILL be broken. Just make sure you are buying the correct needles for the job! You can grab a variety of needles in large qualities on Amazxon for super cheap! Check it out here!* (Another future blog post coming your way soon!)10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  4. Hand sewing needles and seam rippers

    Yes, you will need these. Some patterns will require hand stitching. Even if they don’t, they’re still a handy thing to have around. You never know when you might have to reattach a stray button somewhere. And the seam rippers will be used often. Even when you’re a veteran sewist. Trust me.10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  5. Thread

    Self-explanatory.10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  6. Straight pins and/or Wonder-Clips

    Some experienced seamstresses don’t always use things like this, but if you’re starting out, you’re DEFINITELY going to want to want this anchor to help you out. Even as experienced as I am, I still use them more often than I don’t. (p.s. I use both, which one depends on the project). Every seamstress needs a set of pins and a pin cushion, but Wonder-Clips are amazing!  They are super expensive if you buy them in a big box store, but you can grab them for cheap on Amazon.*10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  7. Measuring tape.

    You’ll need this for making sure you’re sewing the right size if you’re sewing a garment.10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  8. A pattern

    If you’re on this blog, I’m guessing you’re leaning toward garment sewing. And most likely garment sewing for littles. That’s awesome! If you’re starting out, Bella Sunshine has several free patterns you can use to cut your sewing teeth, like Reagan’s Raglan and Isabella’s Banded Skirt! Just join our Facebook group here to learn how to get them! Along with this pattern (if it’s a PDF pattern), you will need a way to print it (either at a print shop or a home printer), along with scotch tape and scissors for cutting paper. Which are NOT the same scissors you will want to use to cut your fabric. Trust me on this.10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  9. Fabric.

    Self-explanatory. Make sure you have the right KIND of fabric for your project as fabrics can vary wildly and will make a HUGE difference in your finished product. Any patterns you purchase should give you a list of suggested fabrics to use for the best outcome. Pay attention to that list for a superior result.10 Things Every Beginner Seamstress Should Have In Their Sewing Kit - This was so helpful! Now I'm ready to tackle that next sewing project!

  10. Fabric cutting tools.

    Here you have a few options. The way I started out was with fabric scissors and a fabric marker. I laid my pattern out on my fabric, traced it with the marker and then used the fabric scissors (again, different from the ones used to cut paper) to cut the pieces. Nowadays I use a rotary cutter, acrylic ruler, and a cutting mat. It’s a little more expensive. It also takes a little practice, especially on the curves, but once you get the hang of it, it is SO much faster and easier than traditional scissors and I can’t imagine cutting any other way anymore. If you don’t already have a rotary cutter, I really recommend Fiskars for just starting out. It is inexpensive, and they have a great warranty.  You can pick up a starter set with everything you need here.*

*Anything marked with an asterisk is an affiliate link. That means if you purchase something when clicking that link, we get a very small percentage which keeps this blog going. That being said, we only link to products that we actually use and recommend. 

6 Reasons You Need a Serger

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Sergers. The thought of them either make you super excited or make you want to run away screaming in terror (I promise, they aren’t that hard to thread.) Honestly, though, for someone who sews garments, they are the ultimate sewing want. There are so many things you can do with them. I am in love with mine so much, that I made a list of all the reasons I think you need one in your life.

6 Reasons You Need A Serger

6 Reasons You Need a Serger

  1. Sergers make sewing with knit fabrics a breeze. Do you love stretchy fabrics? Does the idea of sewing with them on your regular sewing machine make you feel physically ill (No? Just me?) A serger is amazing with knits for one major reason: differential feed. While that sounds like something your mechanic might tell you needs to be replaced on your car, a differential feed is just a fancy term for saying that the two parts that feed in the fabric can move at different rates. If you’ve ever tried to sew knits on a regular sewing machine without a walking foot, you will understand why this is important. The differential feed keeps the fabric from being overstretched.
  2. Sergers give a clean, professional edge on all seams. One of the coolest things about a serger is how it cuts off the fabric as you sew. The thread is then looped around giving a nice clean edge that won’t ravel in the wash. Look inside any ready to wear garment you own and chances are the seams are all serged.  This will give your garments a more professional look (which is a must if you are sewing to sell.)
  3. Sergers are faster than a sewing machine. This is partly because they make the seam and finish the edge in one swoop.  Depending on the finishes, you can even sew an entire garment with your serger without even touching your regular sewing machine.
  4. Sergers can create beautiful rolled hems that are perfect for delicate fabrics. Every serger also has the ability to create a rolled hem. Rolled hems are especially helpful for fragile or slippery fabrics and are often used for special occasions or lingerie.
  5. Sergers can make stronger seams than a traditional sewing machine. Because a serger uses at least 3 or 4 threads, the seams they create are much stronger than those created with a regular sewing machine. That makes those garments you spend all that time making hold up longer.
  6. Entry level sergers are cheaper than ever. The price of a brand new serger has come down a lot in the past several years.  In fact, you can get a brand new Brother 1034D on Amazon for pretty cheap.

Still not convinced? Don’t have the money to shell out for a new serger quite yet? While you can’t get all the cool features like rolled hems or differential feeds on your regular sewing machine, you can fake a serger edge with a side cutter sewing foot for less than $10 on Amazon. The edge is not as crisp as a serger, but I used one for a few years before I decided I had to have a serger in my life.

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