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Reagan Raglan Sew Along ~ Day 4

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Here’s where we get a little serious with Reagan. Today we work on the most technical piece of this sewing puzzle. If you haven’t already, check out Day 1, Day 2 and Day 3 for the beginning steps of the project! And without further ado…

 

Reagan Raglan Sew Along Day 4 ~ Adding a V-Neckband

I know there are a lot of people nervous about doing a v-neck. BUT… If you follow the steps correctly, you should get a PERFECT neckline that you can be VERY proud of. Are you ready for it? Let’s go!

Step one:

Fold your neckband together lengthwise with right sides together. Then bring the folded ends together to form your neckband loop. Make sure the raw edges are at the bottom and then baste the bottom corner of your v. Like so:

It’s also helpful to stick a pin through the back center for a later step.

Step two:

Stay stitch the neckline on the bodice for about 1 1/2″ at the seam allowance (3/8″ in from the edge). It is so important that you do not skip this step and for you to be as exact as you can at that point. Once your stitches are in, clip in from the corner to the stitching without cutting THROUGH the stitches. Place a pin at your corner to mark it.

Now, pin the point of the neckband to the corner of your neckline, taking care to be as precise as you can.

Step three:

Without removing the pin, shift the neckband to one side and pin it well to the neckline. Sew from the point out by about 1 1/2″.

With that done, shift it the other way and sew the other side the same 1 1/2″, being very careful not to sew any folds or tucks. When you’re done, the view from the bodice side will look something like this.

Flip the point to the inside and make sure you don’t have any puckering at the corner.

If everything looks good, yay! Congrats! If not, breathe, find the seam ripper and try again. But I promise, once you’ve done it right once or twice, it gets SO much easier!

Step four:

Now the hard part is done! Flip the neckband back around and use the pin at the center back to match the center back of the neckline and pin and stitch as usual, stretching the neckband to fit and starting and stopping where you have already attached the corner. Finish your edges, flip the seams to the inside, and use your favorite stretch stitch or coverstitch to tack the neckband seam allowance down to the bodice.

Congratulations! You just made it through the hardest part of the sew along! If you are sewing the NEW scoop neckline, follow below.

Step one:

Stitch the short ends of your neckband together, right sides together.

Fold this in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and quarter it with pins.

 

Step two:

Quarter the bodice neckline and then match pins together beginning with matching the neckband seam to the center back bodice. Stitch with the 3/8″ seam allowance and finish your edges.

Step three:

Flip the seam allowance down inside the bodice and use a stretch stitch or coverstitch to tack the neckband seam allowance down to the bodice. Boom! You’re done!

You guys ROCK! I just thought you should know. If you’re seeing this blog for the first time, you can get the Ladies or Kids pattern for FREE by joining the Bella Sunshine Facebook group and grabbing the code from the pinned post. Also, if you’re following along, don’t forget to swing by the group and add your progress to the comments of today’s picture in the sew along album! I can’t wait to see all of the beautiful necklines!

Reagan Raglan Sew Along ~ Day 3

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Welcome to Day 3 of the Reagan Raglan sew along! Today is the day we start sewing! But, if you are just joining us, feel free to look in on Day 1 and Day 2 first! All caught up? Great! Let’s get sewing!

Reagan Raglan Sew Along Day 3~ Adding Sleeves

We’re starting slow and simple here with sleeves. First, take note of the markings you transferred from the paper pieces to your sleeve and bodice pieces. The bodice front and sleeve front should have one marking and the back pieces should have 2. Pin the front sleeve to the front bodice right sides together and sew. Do this for both sides. Then repeat for the back pieces, making sure you line up the double markings. When you’re done, you should have something like this. Sleeves attached and sides open.

I know this is knit and so will not fray, but I have a little tip anyway. Always finish your edges if you aren’t using a serger. It will give your piece a more polished look and add somewhat to the stability of the garment. I’ve finished mine with an overlock stitch in white so it’s less noticeable, but here’s a close-up.

That’s it for today! Easy, right? Tomorrow is the tricky bit, so don’t forget to come back for helpful tips on a perfect v-neck finish! Also, if you haven’t gotten you pattern yet, here is where you can find the Ladies and Kids versions. And don’t forget to visit the Facebook group for the code to make them free! And to add your progress to the comments of today’s picture in the sew along album! See you tomorrow!

(Here’s the schedule again too)

How to Hide Seams in a Banded Hem

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This is for those of you who love the inside of a piece to be as pretty as the outside. Hiding the seam of a banded hem not only helps the look, but it can also avoid the irritation a seam can cause to a child, especially if that child has sensory issues. Want to know how to hide those seams? Keep reading and we’ll show you!

How to Hide Seams in a Banded Hem

For this tutorial, we’re going to use Juliet Flutter Dress as our example. This will work with any banded hem, though!

1.  Begin just after step 34 in the Juliet tutorial instructions.  The two skirt, two main skirt band, and skirt band lining pieces should be sewn at the short sides into loops. The main skirt band and skirt band lining should be sewn together at one long edge.

2. With the wrong side facing up, fold the edge of the skirt band lining up 3/8th of an inch. Press well.

3.  With right sides facing, line up the raw edges of the skirt and skirt band lining. Begin pinning at the side seams. Find the front and back mid point by lining up the side seam pins. Pin the front and back. Continue pinning around the skirt and skirt while evenly distributing the fabric between the pins.

4.  Sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

5.  Press the seam allowance down towards the skirt band.

6.  Fold the main skirt band up and press the seam between the two skirt band pieces.

7.  Bring the top edge of the main skirt band to the bottom edge of the skirt. Overlap the folded edge of the main skirt band and the seam allowance of the skirt and skirt band lining.

8. Pin together beginning with the sides/front/back as done previously on the skirt and skirt band lining.

9.  Topstitch using a 1/8″ seam allowance. Be sure to catch the top edge of the skirt band lining on the back.

10.  Give a final press to the seams.

Congratulations! The seams are now hidden and the skirt is ready for gathers.

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked pt. 1

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As a sewist, most of us follow a pattern. Within that pattern, there are instructions with sewing terms we might not necessarily know how to navigate. This post contains a small glossary that will help explain some of the more common sewing terms. I hope you learn something new today!

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked (A to M)

Armscye:

The opening in a bodice that the arms go through. Where the sleeves attach to a sleeved pattern.

Baste:

To sew two pieces together with long stitches to hold them in place. A regular run of stitches is added after and basting stitches are usually removed.

Casing:

A tube made of the fabric for inserting a gathering option such as elastic or a drawstring.

Dart:

Most commonly found in women’s clothing. A dart is a wedge-shaped fold of fabric that is sewn to help shape the garment properly. Darts are most commonly found in the bust of women’s patterns or in the waist of other garments.

Facing:

A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment opening, most notably a neckline or armscye. They are not the same as a lining as they typically are only a few inches long to the inside of the garment.

Gather:

Gathering is what happens most often with the skirt of a dress, where you pull together the top edge of a wide skirt to fit the width of a smaller bodice. There are several different methods for accomplishing this. The most widely known is to sew two lines of basting stitches parallel to each other within the seam allowance (leaving generous thread tails on both ends) and then pulling on the bobbin threads in order to evenly ruffle or gether the fabric to the desired width.

Hem:

A hem is the finish of the bottom of a garment or sleeve. A hem is made by folding the raw edge up twice and edge stitching along the first fold made. The width of a hem can range anywhere from 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ depending on the pattern.

Interfacing:

Interfacing is most usually a fusible fabric that is adhered to the wrong side of certain pattern pieces (such as facings, collars, waistbands, button plackets) to provide extra support and structure to that piece. You should never skip this particular piece or step when a pattern specifically calls for it, the structure and support is needed in these areas for the integrity of the garment.

Jersey:

Lightweight knit with 2-way (side to side) stretch is most commonly refered to as jersey. It’s perfect for making t-shirts.

Lining:

Unlike a facing, a lining covers the entire inside of a garment. Like a facing, a lining is used to finish the edges of openings and conceal the seams for a prettier more polished look. A lining creates a much more professional finish to a handmade piece.

Muslin:

Muslin has a couple of different meanings. First of all, it is a lighweight type of fabric. Secondly, it is the term used for creating a practice garment. The second meaning was derived from the first, because most practice pieces in history were made with the easy to find and inexpensive muslin fabric. When attempting a more ambitious design or fitted design, it is usually a good idea to start with a muslin, or pratice piece to ensure you have all fitting elements correct before using your good or more expensive fabrics.

 

I sincerely hope that this article has shed a little light on some terms for you. We will finish the alphabet next week, so I hope you’ll come back by to see it!

Pressing vs Ironing-Knowing the Difference

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These two words, “ironing” and “pressing” are often used interchangeably, but I assure you that they are not the same thing. Want to know the difference! Keep reading.

Pressing vs Ironing- Knowing the Difference

Let’s start with some basic definitions. Ironing is to smooth (clothes, sheets, etc.) with an iron by moving it across the fabric. Pressing is to apply pressure to flatten, shape, or smooth fabric, without moving the iron. Now, let me explain further.

Pressing

In the sewing world, this is typically the goal during garment or quilt construction. When pressing a piece of fabric or garment, the iron does not move while it is touching the board. It’s a press, hold, lift technique. What this accomplishes is the smoothing and/or creasing of the fabric without the pull that could possibly distort your pieces. Pressing is what you want to do with cut pieces, uncut fabric, opening seams, creating a memory hem, etc.

Another common use for pressing is to create a crisp crease in a finished garment or when creating things like box pleats and pin tucks. It can be especially helpful to keep a can of spray starch nearby when attempting these as it will stiffen the fabric and hold those creases amazingly well.

Ironing

Ironing is best saved for the finished product. Once the garment is completely sewn, there is less risk of distorting the fabric when moving the iron over it. Ironing is a great way to get the final wrinkles out of your finished garment to prepare it for wearing or photographing. It is essential in the finishing of ALL garments, including knit ones. It creates a nice clean crisp end product that will have everyone asking where you bought it.

Final Tips

With both of these iron methods, you want to be sure your iron and board are clean and that your board has sufficient padding. It will help your end result immensely. Also, do NOT use flavored water in your iron! I’ve heard of a few people doing this as a “life hack”, but I can promise, the only thing this will accomplish will be to ruin your fabric/garment AND your iron, and you don’t need that headache in your life, I’m sure.

Now that you know the difference, use the knowledge well. And Happy Sewing!!!

7 Machine Stitches You Can’t Ignore

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Today we’ll be going over some of our favorite and most used sewing machine stitches. We’ll also discuss the best ways and places to use these stitches in various projects. Some of you may know them all. Some may know only a few. But we sincerely hope you learn something new today, so without further ado…

7 Machine Stitches You Can’t Ignore

Straight Stitch

A straight stitch is by far the most common and widely known stitch in the sewing world. It is the most basic way to machine stitch two pieces of fabric together. It is used for many things like piecing a quilt, sewing seams into a woven fabric project, topstitching, and under-stitching… the list goes on. (For example, you would use this stitch a lot in sewing the new Tess Tulip Shorts in ladies or girls sizes)

Zig-Zag Stitch

A zig-zag stitch is a common way to finish seams or sew knits on a less advanced sewing machine. A wide stitch sewn along the raw edge will keep the fabric from fraying. A narrow zig-zag used on a knit seam will allow it to stretch without breaking. Another thing I like to use this machine stitch for is the lettuce hem. A very wide and very short zigzag creates a satin stitch which is perfect for achieving the lettuce hem with a regular sewing machine.

Stretch Stitch

If you have a more advanced machine, you likely have machine stitches like this at your disposal. The icon for it will look a bit like a lightning bolt. This is the perfect stitch for sewing seams in knit fabrics. I use it every time I sew my daughter a Sahara or the Bow Tie Leggings. It’s a narrow unobtrusive stitch with a lot of stretch, which keeps the seams from popping open. If you have this one and haven’t tried it yet, you should. It will change your sewing life.

Overlock Stitch

This is the more advanced version of a finishing stitch. There are several different versions of an overlock stitch, but the one pictured is the one I use the most. I find that it does a better job of preventing fraying and makes for a cleaner, more professional looking finish than a traditional zig-zag. I use this for all of my projects, regardless of fabric type.

Blind Hem Stitch

This stitch is used for, you guessed it, a blind hem! While this one is a little more difficult to master, it does make for some beautiful hems. Practice makes perfect, and I promise this one will be well worth the time to figure out. It is primarily used for woven fabrics and the occasional stable knit. Alice is a good example of a pattern that makes use of a blind hem.

Double Needle Stitch

The double needle is mostly used for things like hemming knits and creating those perfect parallel lines while topstitching things like jeans. You can achieve this look by using a double needle with 2 spools of thread on top and one bobbin underneath with a straight stitch. It can be scary to start learning, but the end result is pretty awesome once you have it figured out. When using this stitch, the lines in the top of the fabric will be straight and parallel, while the bottom is zig-zagged and interconnected. It really is a cool and very professional look, if that’s what you’re aiming for.

Decorative Stitch

Decorative machine stitches can be a lot of fun. There are many different varieties and have many different uses. For example, I’ve used them in hemming, topstitching, general decoration, and they are often used in quilting. The styles range from daisy chains to what looks like a random squiggle. Experiment with them. You never know what you might fall in love with. Pictured here is a decorative shell stitch.

 

FREE Pants Fitting Guide You Can’t Live Without

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Nothing strikes fear in a seamstress’ heart more than the thought of having to sew a pair of perfectly fitted pair of pants or shorts! Let’s face it, unless you have the “ideal” standard body (does this even exist?), you are probably going to need to make a small alteration or two to get a perfect fit.  Lucky for you, we created this handy cheat sheet to help you know exactly what alterations you need to do.

The Pants Fitting Guide You Can’t Live Without

There is no shame in needing a small alteration to the pattern.  We are all built a little different, and that’s what makes each of us awesome. But, what if you think alterations are scary? Or what if you don’t know where to start? That’s where this handy guide comes in.

Getting Started

We are going to get started with some easy ones and then move on to some harder one. The first thing you need to do is measure yourself and choose your size based on your hip measurement on the measurement chart.  It is very important to ignore your ready-to-wear size completely.  Just like Old Navy and J. Crew have a completely different size structure, so do sewing patterns.  Also, it’s important to pick the size you really are, not the size you think you are. I’ve seen a lot of fitting issues that are easily resolved just by picking the right size.

These first adjustments I generally recommend to do before you sew anything. Every sewing pattern should provide a given height that the pattern is drafted for.  For example, our ladies patterns are drafted for a 5’5″-5’7″ height.  If you are 5’10”, you are going to know right out of the bat, that you are going to need some extra length. Another good thing to look at are the finished garment measurements.  You can use these measurements along with your own personal measurements to estimate just how much of an alteration you need to do.

Alteration Key

Use the key above when using this guide.

Longer Torso Pants Fitting

If you have a longer torso, you are going to need more rise. To do so, slash the pattern and add however much extra length you need. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Shorter Torso Pants Fitting

If you have a shorter torso, you are going to need less rise. To do so, slash the pattern and overlap the pattern in the amount you need to shorten. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Longer Legs Pants Fitting

If your inseam is longer than the pattern’s, you are going to need more length in the legs. To do so, slash the pattern and add however much extra length you need. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Shorter Legs Pants Fitting

If your inseam is longer than the pattern’s, you are going to need more length in the legs. To do so, slash the pattern and overlap the pattern in the amount you need to shorten. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Smaller Waist Pants Fitting

If your waist is smaller than your hip in the measurement chart, you can adjust the waist by blending to the size you fall in the waist. Keep in mind, if you are sewing a simple elastic waist short/pant, sometimes it is easier to just adjust the elastic width. If your waist is significantly smaller than your hip, you may be better off choosing a Flat Tummy Adjustment below.

Wider Waist Pants Fitting

If your waist is larger than your hip in the measurement chart, you can adjust the waist by blending to the size you fall in the waist. Keep in mind, if you are sewing a simple elastic waist short/pant, sometimes it is easier to just adjust the elastic width. If your waist is significantly larger than your hip, you may be better off choosing a Full Tummy Adjustment below.

Want More? Download Our Pants Fitting Guide!

 

Now I could list a TON more here in this post. But instead, I created this handy PDF download for you!  This way, you don’t have to refer back to the page all the time (but still, Pin it for future reference!) Head to the form at the bottom of this post, to have even more adjustments (like Sway Back, Buttock Adjustments and many others) sent directly to your email!

So confession time, what pants adjustment do you normally have to do? Are there any we didn’t cover here or in the guide that you would like to see? Let me know in the comments!

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

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Have you ever looked at a pattern and thought a really cute lace or pom-pom trim would look fabulous on it? Not sure how to accomplish that? Let us help you! Today, we’re bringing you a tutorial on how to add any of these embellishments to any hem! It might just add the perfect touch to those Tess Tulip Shorts (in Ladies and Girls sizing!) that you’ve been eyeing.

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

While this might seem like a tricky thing, it’s actually pretty simple. And once you’ve done it once or twice, you’ll be a pro at adding trim to just about any pattern in your arsenal to make it extra special!

Step One: Create a Memory Hem

Using the pattern’s instructions, fold your hem and iron it in place, creating creases where the hem will eventually be. In the case of the Tess Tulip shorts, that hem is two 1/4″ folds, pictured.

Step Two: Place and Pin Trim in Place

With the hem folded, place your trim (here, my lace) where how you would like it to lay on the wrong side of the garment. Carefully unfold the hem and pin the lace (or pompoms or ricrac) in place through a single layer of fabric. The trim that will be peeking from beneath your hem should be pointed toward the main body of your garment. Carefully sew along the edge of your trim through the single layer of fabric. These stitches will keep it perfectly in place for the final step.

Step Three: Adding the Hem

Now that you have the decorative part in place, the rest is easy peasy. Just fold along the creases you created in step one and stitch into place like you normally would! I personally love lace but have seen some amazing pom-pom and ric-rac added to hems for some phenomenal pieces as well. Be creative! Have a blast! And make everything beautiful and uniquely yours!

The Dos of Pattern Testing

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Pattern testing is a huge part of getting a great fitting quality pattern on the market. To get the patterns perfect, designers depend on awesome testers. Those testers test fit, read and follow directions for clarity and mistakes, and provide the designer with valuable feedback. If you’ve ever thought about testing, read this so you’ll know exactly what to do. (And if you haven’t read our list of Don’ts from last week. You should give it a peek, you won’t regret it.)

The Dos of Pattern Testing

Only sign up if you can commit & don’t forget to read the pinned post.

Pattern designers depend on reliable testers who can complete the work in a certain time frame. Sometimes those time frames are tight. Sometimes you will be required to sew multiple versions. The first (or second) draft might have minor (or major) fit issues. That is the nature of testing, as it takes trial and error to get it just right. Before you commit to testing a pattern, make sure you know the time and fabric expectations and are ok with it. The pinned post typically houses all of these expectations with other important information, so don’t skip it, read it!

Always sew the size you were assigned and blend if needed.

Almost all pattern designers are very intent on getting their fit “just right” for their listed measurements. This accuracy depends on YOUR accuracy in sewing the correct size, which means blending sizes if the designer requests it. A successful pattern brand depends on a consistently good fit. Pattern testers are a key force in ensuring that happens.

Read and follow the directions exactly.

Another very important part of testing is in making sure the directions make sense and don’t have any typos. As such, most designers ask that you do a complete read through of the tutorial before ever touching a piece of fabric or pair of scissors. Make note of any glaring mistakes and ask about any steps that seem out of order or don’t make sense before you begin. Also, do NOT alter the pattern design in any way outside of the size blending and follow directions to a tee. Only by following pieces and construction EXACTLY will any problems be found. Any information you gather during the construction will provide some much-needed information for the designer to perfect the pattern before its release.

Give detailed feedback.

Don’t be afraid to nitpick. A great pattern designer will use those notes to the benefit of the pattern. “Don’t sweat the small stuff” doesn’t apply to pattern testing. Sweat it. Mention everything, and I mean everything. You never know what might be important to the overall fit and design. Trust me, the designer wants to hear it all.

Take good fit pics, it’s crucial!

Considering most testing is done by people all over the world, fit pictures are crucial to getting pattern dimensions just right. A clear uncluttered background is great. A blank wall is even better. The model should stand straight, square to the camera for a front shot. It is recommended to take pics with arms out as well as arms down to get the best idea of fit in tops and dresses. It is also very helpful to the designer to get those same poses from the side and back. The more they can see, the better any alterations will be. Another handy tip- If your model has long hair, make sure that hair is out of the way in each shot.

When you post your fit pictures, overshare.

Every piece of information you have, you should state with the fit pics. Again, there is NO such thing as too much information when it comes to pattern testing. Things you definitely want to state are the size you sewed (including any minor alterations or size blending you did), the type of fabric you used, the model’s measurements (including height), and any perceived fit issues you find once the garment is finished and being worn. Anything can be used to improve the pattern quality, so let it all out!

Be polite within the testing group.

You will likely get comments on your questions and pictures from the designer, their admins, or other testers. You might not agree with all of the opinions, but it is important to the environment of the group that it stays a happy and positive place. Comments to criticisms can always be made in a polite manner. Just try to keep it civil. Pattern designers don’t usually like rude testers. Happy and kind makes for a much more supportive and helpful group.

Always use an iron.

Final pictures should always include a freshly pressed garment. Those pictures should convey a professional finished look to the piece with wrinkles gone so everything lays pretty and any knit seams laying flat instead of wavy. A good iron is one of your best friends when it is time to show off your finished work.

Phenomenal final pictures are always welcome!

Not everyone has access to a professional camera or photographer, but that doesn’t mean great pictures are out of your reach! Many phones today have fantastic cameras and can take pretty great pics.

There are a few key tips to taking great final pictures. The model’s clothes should be pressed nicely and the model should be clean and styled. Neatly brushed or styled hair and a few accessories never hurt, as long as it doesn’t take away from the garment. Natural light is your friend and is the best light for picking up detail. Just don’t stand in direct sunlight! Indirect light is your best bet. Find a clear uncluttered background. Nature makes a beautiful backdrop, and as long as your garment isn’t green, it should stand out nicely. Other good options are tall wooden fences or pretty front doors. Just make sure your model (and the product) pop in front of it.

 

If you follow these tips, you’ll find yourself asked to test again and again! And I don’t know about you, but I always feel amazing helping a designer release a perfect pattern. And you can say “I helped with that!” It’s a great feeling.

The Don’ts of Pattern Testing

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Pattern testing is a mildly annoying step in the mass production of PDF patterns. The faster the designer can shove them out, the better (for them). But if you ever take time out of your busy schedule to test, there are some things that just aren’t worth your time to mess with. This list will help you by informing you of what NOT to waste your time with.

The Don’ts of Pattern Testing

Don’t worry about deadlines or the pinned post in the testing group.

Pattern designers don’t really care how long you take or if you read the pinned post. Deadlines and pinned posts are only there for show. Take your time and do it your way. Besides, the line at Starbucks was WAY too long for you to start on time anyway.

Don’t worry about the size you were assigned and NEVER blend sizes!

The assigned sizes are just a suggestion. Everybody knows that. Sew what you want. And under no circumstance should you ever blend sizes. Sewn garments should always fit in straight sizes. I mean, you never see blended sizes in the department stores, do you?

Don’t even look at the instructions.

Instructions are just more suggestions, like the assigned sizes. Get your pieces together and sew them how YOU think they should go together. It should work out just fine. Your finished garment will be fabulous, no matter what, because you did it yourself!

Don’t give feedback, ever.

The pattern designer knows what they’re doing, that is why they are the designer. Feedback is not necessary. Feedback will probably just get them cranky unless it’s all sunshine and roses, and it never is. You just do you, and let them worry about their own stuff.

Don’t bother with good fit pictures.

The designer just needs a general idea, so blurry pictures on a moving target are just fine. Your kid doesn’t need to stand still and it doesn’t matter how cluttered your house is. They’ll get more than enough from a blurry cluttered pic if that’s what you can manage.

Don’t interact or bother with politeness in the group should you engage.

Members of the testing group don’t need to talk to you. They don’t need your input. And feel free to snap at them if they keep pestering you. They don’t know you. They don’t know your life. And why are they so nosy? They don’t deserve nice.

Don’t give any information that wasn’t asked specifically of you.

The pattern designer will ask you anything they NEED to know. Unasked for information is something you should never feel obligated to give. It isn’t any of their business what size you sewed or the fabric you used. And if you ran into any fit problems, the designer will see that in your fit pictures, if you decided to provide them.

Don’t use an iron.

Do irons even exist in the wild anymore? Only 50’s tv sitcom moms ever used them. So what if your finished piece is wrinkled? People walk around in wrinkled clothes every day. Why should this be any different? It’s just reality.

Don’t worry about getting pretty promotional shots.

Promo shots. Not necessary. But should you decide to grace them with a few, don’t worry about focus. If the pattern is good enough, the focus won’t matter. If you’re testing a pattern for yourself? Bathroom selfies are so IN right now! Especially ones in dirty mirrors that haven’t been cleaned since ’93. So artsy! Don’t worry about it with kids patterns, though. Getting a child all dressed up in perfectly pressed clothes in a field of daisies skipping and smiling is never going to happen anyway, so why bother? The camera is not your friend. IF you can get your kid clean and dressed… The camera will never catch the smile of a child, it’s impossible. And that field of daisies? It’s 50 miles away. Ain’t nobody got time for that.

 

**This post was written for entertainment purposes only. It is satire and should not be taken seriously.**

**P.S. Pictures are used with permission from the seamstresses they belong to. We would like to extend a very warm thank you to An Staute, Danielle Oliver, Jessica Reynolds, Laurie Roberts, and Michelle Ryan for their amazing sense of humor and willingness to show us the less glamorous side of pattern testing.**

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