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Announcement: Reagan Sew Along Coming!

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We have a fun announcement for you all! Another sew along! Starting this Saturday, we will be sewing along with the Reagan Raglan! Want more details? Here’s what’s up!

Announcement: Reagan Sew Along Coming!

The premise of a sew along is simple! Visit the blog and read up on that day’s steps, complete those steps, and share! In the end, we will all have adorable little (or adult) raglans to share! And the best part? Prizes! That’s right! Everyone who completes the sew along and shares pictures of their final creations is entered to win a prize at the end! There will be 3 $10 Bella Sunshine gift cards awarded. One for each category: Admins Choice, People’s Choice, or Random Draw! Do you want in? Just come to the Bella Sunshine facebook group to share your progress and keep an eye on this blog for the steps!

What will you need?

To complete the sew along you will need fabric, a machine, thread, pins and the pattern. Oh, and internet access. That’s pretty important too.

Surprise!

There’s more! Melissa has been working hard to make this free pattern even more phenomenal! If you haven’t downloaded this pattern recently, you might want to consider replacing the file, because it has new treats for you all! She has added a rounded neckline to all sizes for those who don’t want or struggle with a v-neck AND she’s expanded out to plus sizes in the Ladies version! How great is that?

You can get the pattern in Ladies or Kids sizes for FREE by checking out the pinned post in the group for a special code! Come join us for fun, support and prizes as we sew this easy wardrobe staple! See you soon!

Check out the schedule below to know what to expect.

How to Hide Seams in a Banded Hem

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This is for those of you who love the inside of a piece to be as pretty as the outside. Hiding the seam of a banded hem not only helps the look, but it can also avoid the irritation a seam can cause to a child, especially if that child has sensory issues. Want to know how to hide those seams? Keep reading and we’ll show you!

How to Hide Seams in a Banded Hem

For this tutorial, we’re going to use Juliet Flutter Dress as our example. This will work with any banded hem, though!

1.  Begin just after step 34 in the Juliet tutorial instructions.  The two skirt, two main skirt band, and skirt band lining pieces should be sewn at the short sides into loops. The main skirt band and skirt band lining should be sewn together at one long edge.

2. With the wrong side facing up, fold the edge of the skirt band lining up 3/8th of an inch. Press well.

3.  With right sides facing, line up the raw edges of the skirt and skirt band lining. Begin pinning at the side seams. Find the front and back mid point by lining up the side seam pins. Pin the front and back. Continue pinning around the skirt and skirt while evenly distributing the fabric between the pins.

4.  Sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

5.  Press the seam allowance down towards the skirt band.

6.  Fold the main skirt band up and press the seam between the two skirt band pieces.

7.  Bring the top edge of the main skirt band to the bottom edge of the skirt. Overlap the folded edge of the main skirt band and the seam allowance of the skirt and skirt band lining.

8. Pin together beginning with the sides/front/back as done previously on the skirt and skirt band lining.

9.  Topstitch using a 1/8″ seam allowance. Be sure to catch the top edge of the skirt band lining on the back.

10.  Give a final press to the seams.

Congratulations! The seams are now hidden and the skirt is ready for gathers.

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked pt. 1

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As a sewist, most of us follow a pattern. Within that pattern, there are instructions with sewing terms we might not necessarily know how to navigate. This post contains a small glossary that will help explain some of the more common sewing terms. I hope you learn something new today!

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked (A to M)

Armscye:

The opening in a bodice that the arms go through. Where the sleeves attach to a sleeved pattern.

Baste:

To sew two pieces together with long stitches to hold them in place. A regular run of stitches is added after and basting stitches are usually removed.

Casing:

A tube made of the fabric for inserting a gathering option such as elastic or a drawstring.

Dart:

Most commonly found in women’s clothing. A dart is a wedge-shaped fold of fabric that is sewn to help shape the garment properly. Darts are most commonly found in the bust of women’s patterns or in the waist of other garments.

Facing:

A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment opening, most notably a neckline or armscye. They are not the same as a lining as they typically are only a few inches long to the inside of the garment.

Gather:

Gathering is what happens most often with the skirt of a dress, where you pull together the top edge of a wide skirt to fit the width of a smaller bodice. There are several different methods for accomplishing this. The most widely known is to sew two lines of basting stitches parallel to each other within the seam allowance (leaving generous thread tails on both ends) and then pulling on the bobbin threads in order to evenly ruffle or gether the fabric to the desired width.

Hem:

A hem is the finish of the bottom of a garment or sleeve. A hem is made by folding the raw edge up twice and edge stitching along the first fold made. The width of a hem can range anywhere from 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ depending on the pattern.

Interfacing:

Interfacing is most usually a fusible fabric that is adhered to the wrong side of certain pattern pieces (such as facings, collars, waistbands, button plackets) to provide extra support and structure to that piece. You should never skip this particular piece or step when a pattern specifically calls for it, the structure and support is needed in these areas for the integrity of the garment.

Jersey:

Lightweight knit with 2-way (side to side) stretch is most commonly refered to as jersey. It’s perfect for making t-shirts.

Lining:

Unlike a facing, a lining covers the entire inside of a garment. Like a facing, a lining is used to finish the edges of openings and conceal the seams for a prettier more polished look. A lining creates a much more professional finish to a handmade piece.

Muslin:

Muslin has a couple of different meanings. First of all, it is a lighweight type of fabric. Secondly, it is the term used for creating a practice garment. The second meaning was derived from the first, because most practice pieces in history were made with the easy to find and inexpensive muslin fabric. When attempting a more ambitious design or fitted design, it is usually a good idea to start with a muslin, or pratice piece to ensure you have all fitting elements correct before using your good or more expensive fabrics.

 

I sincerely hope that this article has shed a little light on some terms for you. We will finish the alphabet next week, so I hope you’ll come back by to see it!

Pressing vs Ironing-Knowing the Difference

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These two words, “ironing” and “pressing” are often used interchangeably, but I assure you that they are not the same thing. Want to know the difference! Keep reading.

Pressing vs Ironing- Knowing the Difference

Let’s start with some basic definitions. Ironing is to smooth (clothes, sheets, etc.) with an iron by moving it across the fabric. Pressing is to apply pressure to flatten, shape, or smooth fabric, without moving the iron. Now, let me explain further.

Pressing

In the sewing world, this is typically the goal during garment or quilt construction. When pressing a piece of fabric or garment, the iron does not move while it is touching the board. It’s a press, hold, lift technique. What this accomplishes is the smoothing and/or creasing of the fabric without the pull that could possibly distort your pieces. Pressing is what you want to do with cut pieces, uncut fabric, opening seams, creating a memory hem, etc.

Another common use for pressing is to create a crisp crease in a finished garment or when creating things like box pleats and pin tucks. It can be especially helpful to keep a can of spray starch nearby when attempting these as it will stiffen the fabric and hold those creases amazingly well.

Ironing

Ironing is best saved for the finished product. Once the garment is completely sewn, there is less risk of distorting the fabric when moving the iron over it. Ironing is a great way to get the final wrinkles out of your finished garment to prepare it for wearing or photographing. It is essential in the finishing of ALL garments, including knit ones. It creates a nice clean crisp end product that will have everyone asking where you bought it.

Final Tips

With both of these iron methods, you want to be sure your iron and board are clean and that your board has sufficient padding. It will help your end result immensely. Also, do NOT use flavored water in your iron! I’ve heard of a few people doing this as a “life hack”, but I can promise, the only thing this will accomplish will be to ruin your fabric/garment AND your iron, and you don’t need that headache in your life, I’m sure.

Now that you know the difference, use the knowledge well. And Happy Sewing!!!

FREE Pants Fitting Guide You Can’t Live Without

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Nothing strikes fear in a seamstress’ heart more than the thought of having to sew a pair of perfectly fitted pair of pants or shorts! Let’s face it, unless you have the “ideal” standard body (does this even exist?), you are probably going to need to make a small alteration or two to get a perfect fit.  Lucky for you, we created this handy cheat sheet to help you know exactly what alterations you need to do.

The Pants Fitting Guide You Can’t Live Without

There is no shame in needing a small alteration to the pattern.  We are all built a little different, and that’s what makes each of us awesome. But, what if you think alterations are scary? Or what if you don’t know where to start? That’s where this handy guide comes in.

Getting Started

We are going to get started with some easy ones and then move on to some harder one. The first thing you need to do is measure yourself and choose your size based on your hip measurement on the measurement chart.  It is very important to ignore your ready-to-wear size completely.  Just like Old Navy and J. Crew have a completely different size structure, so do sewing patterns.  Also, it’s important to pick the size you really are, not the size you think you are. I’ve seen a lot of fitting issues that are easily resolved just by picking the right size.

These first adjustments I generally recommend to do before you sew anything. Every sewing pattern should provide a given height that the pattern is drafted for.  For example, our ladies patterns are drafted for a 5’5″-5’7″ height.  If you are 5’10”, you are going to know right out of the bat, that you are going to need some extra length. Another good thing to look at are the finished garment measurements.  You can use these measurements along with your own personal measurements to estimate just how much of an alteration you need to do.

Alteration Key

Use the key above when using this guide.

Longer Torso Pants Fitting

If you have a longer torso, you are going to need more rise. To do so, slash the pattern and add however much extra length you need. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Shorter Torso Pants Fitting

If you have a shorter torso, you are going to need less rise. To do so, slash the pattern and overlap the pattern in the amount you need to shorten. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Longer Legs Pants Fitting

If your inseam is longer than the pattern’s, you are going to need more length in the legs. To do so, slash the pattern and add however much extra length you need. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Shorter Legs Pants Fitting

If your inseam is longer than the pattern’s, you are going to need more length in the legs. To do so, slash the pattern and overlap the pattern in the amount you need to shorten. Then re-blend the curves as indicated by the pink lines.

Smaller Waist Pants Fitting

If your waist is smaller than your hip in the measurement chart, you can adjust the waist by blending to the size you fall in the waist. Keep in mind, if you are sewing a simple elastic waist short/pant, sometimes it is easier to just adjust the elastic width. If your waist is significantly smaller than your hip, you may be better off choosing a Flat Tummy Adjustment below.

Wider Waist Pants Fitting

If your waist is larger than your hip in the measurement chart, you can adjust the waist by blending to the size you fall in the waist. Keep in mind, if you are sewing a simple elastic waist short/pant, sometimes it is easier to just adjust the elastic width. If your waist is significantly larger than your hip, you may be better off choosing a Full Tummy Adjustment below.

Want More? Download Our Pants Fitting Guide!

 

Now I could list a TON more here in this post. But instead, I created this handy PDF download for you!  This way, you don’t have to refer back to the page all the time (but still, Pin it for future reference!) Head to the form at the bottom of this post, to have even more adjustments (like Sway Back, Buttock Adjustments and many others) sent directly to your email!

So confession time, what pants adjustment do you normally have to do? Are there any we didn’t cover here or in the guide that you would like to see? Let me know in the comments!

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

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Have you ever looked at a pattern and thought a really cute lace or pom-pom trim would look fabulous on it? Not sure how to accomplish that? Let us help you! Today, we’re bringing you a tutorial on how to add any of these embellishments to any hem! It might just add the perfect touch to those Tess Tulip Shorts (in Ladies and Girls sizing!) that you’ve been eyeing.

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

While this might seem like a tricky thing, it’s actually pretty simple. And once you’ve done it once or twice, you’ll be a pro at adding trim to just about any pattern in your arsenal to make it extra special!

Step One: Create a Memory Hem

Using the pattern’s instructions, fold your hem and iron it in place, creating creases where the hem will eventually be. In the case of the Tess Tulip shorts, that hem is two 1/4″ folds, pictured.

Step Two: Place and Pin Trim in Place

With the hem folded, place your trim (here, my lace) where how you would like it to lay on the wrong side of the garment. Carefully unfold the hem and pin the lace (or pompoms or ricrac) in place through a single layer of fabric. The trim that will be peeking from beneath your hem should be pointed toward the main body of your garment. Carefully sew along the edge of your trim through the single layer of fabric. These stitches will keep it perfectly in place for the final step.

Step Three: Adding the Hem

Now that you have the decorative part in place, the rest is easy peasy. Just fold along the creases you created in step one and stitch into place like you normally would! I personally love lace but have seen some amazing pom-pom and ric-rac added to hems for some phenomenal pieces as well. Be creative! Have a blast! And make everything beautiful and uniquely yours!

Sahara Sew Along Days 7 and 8

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Hello again! Welcome back! Are you ready to finish this crazy amazing Sahara of yours? Today’s the day! But first, if you’re just joining us, there IS time to catch up (I promise)! Just follow the links to Day 1, Day 2, Days 3 and 4, and Days 5 and 6. All caught up? Great! Let’s get started!

Sahara Sew Along Days 7 and 8

Today we add the skirt and finish the dress! But if you’re adding pockets, we need to do that first.

Adding Pockets

You should have 2 half circle skirt pieces and 4 pocket pieces. Take each pocket piece and pin it to the skirt sides. There should have been marks on the pattern, but if you missed them, you can pin them about 2 inches down from the top like so:

Then baste all 4 in place individually, just inside of the seam allowance. Pin the skirt pieces together with the seams pressed toward the pockets (alternatively, you can understitch the pockets). Once pinned, you should have something that resembles this:

Now, just sew all the way down both sides, taking special care around the outside of the pockets. Go slow if you need to. Don’t sew in a straight line all the way down or you’ll sew the pockets shut (I’m only saying this because I did that the first time I ever tried to sew a pocket lol). Once the side seams are sewn, finish the edges and you’re ready to move on!

Attaching the Skirt

Now, quarter the bodice and skirt waist openings and match them up to attack the skirt. If you’ve added pockets, make sure the side seams are pressed to the front so that the pockets will lay to the front of the skirt. Sew the waist seam with clear elastic to help stabilize it if you have it (I didn’t have any, but I highly recommend it’s use).

Now that you have the skirt attached, we’re in the home stretch! You now have a mostly finished Sahara!

Hemming

All that’s left is to decide on a hem! Now, there are MANY options for hemming a knit skirt. One is to not. Some prefer to simply leave the edges raw since knit does not fray. If this is your chosen method, you’re finished! Congrats! Some fold up the bottom and use a coverstitch machine or a sewing machine with a double needle to sew parallel straight stitches into the hem as you see in many ready to wear garments. Some use a single row of straight or stretch or zigzag sitches to hold their hem in place. Me? I’m a little more unconventional in that area. My love is the lettuce hem and I’ll give you a quick rundown of how I do that on my sewing machine. First, the settings.

I set my machine to a zigzag stitch with a 5mm width and a 0.3mm length, giving me a satin stitch. I place my fabric under my needle with the edge centered under the foot. When you start, go SLOW! Trust me. And unlike most conventional knit sewing, you will WANT to stretch your fabric as much as possible as it’s feeding through the machine. The combination of the tight satin stitches and the stretch fabric will leave you with a very pretty ruffled edge.

Now, I’d recommend a matching thread if you’re newer to this method, but if you practice and get good at it, contrasting lettuce hems can be stunning on the right pieces. I will warn you, a lettuce hem does take a LOT more time than a traditional hem, and sewing one can get pretty intense at times. You’ll also want to make sure you’re starting one with a full bobbin, because they do use up a LOT of thread. But, to me, it’s worth it for the look.

And that’s it! You’re done with your very own Sahara! Go you! If you aren’t quite there, we do have some catch up days planned, so no worries there. Make sure you visit our Facebook group and add your picture from today’s steps into the comments of today’s picture in the album! I can’t WAIT to see all of the finished pretties! I LOVE seeing what you all make! In case you need a refresher, here’s the schedule again. And a reminder that the ladies and girls Sahara patterns will remain on sale through Sunday, so go grab yours while it’s on if you haven’t already!

Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric

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Ruffles: You either love them or hate them. Or maybe you are like me and love them but hate sewing them! But did you know there is an easier way to get a perfect ruffle in half the time? I give you the secret to easy ruffles…
Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric - I love this sewing tutorial! I love the look of ruffles , but hate sewing them. I never knew there was another way!

Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric

Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric - I love this sewing tutorial! I love the look of ruffles , but hate sewing them. I never knew there was another way!This is SOOO easy guys! First thing you need to grab is some clear elastic. You can find it in the notions aisle of your favorite fabric store, or you can buy it here on Amazon.*

Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric - I love this sewing tutorial! I love the look of ruffles , but hate sewing them. I never knew there was another way!Cut the fabric to the size you need your finished ruffle to be. So if the fabric you are ruffling is 8″, but you want it to be 4″ when finished, cut your elastic to 4″.

Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric - I love this sewing tutorial! I love the look of ruffles , but hate sewing them. I never knew there was another way!Start at the end of the piece of fabric that you want to ruffle and put a few stitched in to hold the elastic in place. I’m using this technique for our new Amelia Maxi, Dress & Top. The waistband on it is ruffled at the side seam, so I’m going to go ahead and sew the two bands together AND ruffle them at the same time. Because of this, I am ruffling on the seamline. If you were going to ruffle first and then attached the piece to a garment, You could also apply the elastic within the seam allowance so it won’t be seen afterward.

Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric - I love this sewing tutorial! I love the look of ruffles , but hate sewing them. I never knew there was another way!As you are sewing, stretch the elastic to the total length of the fabric you are trying to ruffle. The beginning part of this is the most difficult as it might try to shift your fabric out of place. But once you get going, it will get easier.  I often hold the back end of fabric at first to keep it in place. When you get to the end, backstitch to keep your stitching in place.

Clear Elastic: An Alternative Way to Ruffle Fabric - I love this sewing tutorial! I love the look of ruffles , but hate sewing them. I never knew there was another way!You did it. This is what the ruffle looked like on the outside of the two pieces I sewed together. This was a much easier way of sewing the ruffle than basting since the fabric piece was so small. I also made a handy video for you of the whole process which you can view here:

Now you can go out and ruffle all the things! Clear elastic is so handy to have in your sewing toolbox. I use it on anything from ruffles to stabilizing seams. What is your favorite thing to use clear elastic for?

*This post contains affiliate links. That means when you click on the link and purchase something, we get a small percentage of the sale which helps keep this blog running. We only promote things that we recommend and love. 

Top 10 Woven Fabric Choices For Garment Sewing

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There are TONS of different types of fabrics out there, and sometimes it’s hard to choose just the right thing for a certain project. Bella Sunshine Designs has a wide variety of different patterns designed for woven fabric, and sometimes the choices can be overwhelming. This post will attempt to help shed some light on the differences between some of the most commonly used woven fabrics used in garment sewing to help make your choices a little easier!

Top 10 Woven Fabric Choices For Garment Sewing

  1. Cotton or Quilting Cotton

    This is the most common, and typically least expensive, of the woven fabrics. You can purchase it in plain solid colors or with pretty prints on it. For the most part, it is good for everyday wear clothing. It will wrinkle, but it is iron safe at higher temperatures and typically easier to care for. Almost all of BSD’s woven designs can be made using this type of woven fabric.

  2. Linen

    The weave of a linen is a little looser than the cotton and it tends to have a nicer drape to it. It makes really great summer wear because of its lightweight nature and breathe-ability. It is most commonly found in solid colors, although, if you look hard enough, you can occasionally find a print or a solid with some metallic threads worked in which is great for adding interest and sparkle to a clothing piece. The Paradise Island Shift Dress by BSD is actually quite nice in a linen.

  3. Wool

    This is a heavier fabric and tends to be on the thicker side. It is GREAT for winter wear such as coats and pants. Some of it can be kind of itchy, but there are a lot of non-itchy varieties as well, you just have to test them by feel to find your favorites! (This is a GREAT  fabric choice for Gabriella’s Winter Coat pattern!)

  4. Denim

    Denim can be tricky. It is often (but not always) blue and comes in a wide variety of shades and weights/thicknesses. It’s perfect for mid-weight jackets, shorts, pants, skirts, jumpers… all kinds of things! Just make sure you take care with the fabric thickness part to ensure your machine can handle it. And always make sure you have the proper (denim) needle!

  5. Leather

    While not incredibly common anymore, this is still a really nice choice for jackets, vests, baby shoes, etc. The real thing tends to be on the pricier side, although you can get faux leather as well.

  6. Silk

    Silk is known for many things. It’s one of the strongest natural fabrics known, it’s soft, it’s lustrous and it often speaks to luxury. It also makes for some of the most beautiful and comfortable clothing you can wear. While a silk care regimen doesn’t often lend itself to children’s clothing often, it does make very nice special occasion wear for children or semi-dressy to full out formal wear for adults. One thing to note is you will definitely want fresh needles of the sharps variety when sewing with silk fabric.

  7. Satin

    Like silk, this is a very great option for special occasion wear and costuming because of its sheen. You’ll want to make sure you have plenty of pins or clips on hand, though, because this, like the rest of the second half of this list, tends to be slippery while sewing, leading to much careful seam ripping if it isn’t properly pinned when you start!

  8. Chiffon

    Chiffon can be made with many different types of material from cotton to silk to polyester, but it is always a lightweight sheer fabric with an almost heavenly drape. It is often used in formal wear and ladies blouses but is also quite nice as an overlay to children’s dresses as well. Can you just imagine a Felicity with a pretty printed chiffon over a brightly colored solid lining fabric? Talk about darling! Also another fabric you’ll definitely want fresh sharps on hand for to prevent runs in the fabric, due to its more delicate nature.

  9. Tulle

    Along the same lines as the chiffon in terms of use, but is structured more like a netting. You can get it in a wide range of textured based on how tight or loose that netting is woven. Tulle is great for pettiskirts to make a dress poof, or as its own outer skirt layer to make the design a little more light and dreamy. A layer or three on the top of any gathered skirt will make it look like a princess dress in a snap!

  10. Velvet

    Last, but certainly not least. This fabric will make an instant impression. It does come in knit (stretchy) and woven (not stretchy) versions, so take care to be sure you have the right one when purchasing. I have made many a holiday dress with velvet. It’s not only soft and beautiful, but it also tends to be warm (and I live where it gets cold). Another great use for velvet is to make cloaks and gowns for things like Renaissance faires. It goes well with the period and keeps you warm on those crisp fall days!

Those are the most common woven fabrics by our count, but if there are others you’d like to learn more about, please let us know! We can answer questions now, or make another post in the future with different wovens included…. because there are SO many more! And be sure to check out our post on which needle you should choose depending on your fabric type! Also, please join us in our Facebook group to get inspiration, ask questions and share your creations! We’d LOVE to hear from you!

Know Your Needles! And the Fabrics They Go With.

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There are many different types of needles out there. In this post, you will learn the 5 most common and most used in garment sewing, as well as the fabrics and projects they are best suited for.

Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

Know Your Needles! And the Fabrics They Go With

Ready? Let’s get started!

 

Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  1. The Universal Needle.

    You can use this needle across a variety of woven or knit fabrics, from a mid-weight to a fairly lightweight without too much of an issue. If you’re just starting out and practicing, this might be a good choice for you as they are also sometimes a little less expensive than some of the other varieties. But they will also not always produce as beautiful as a result depending on the other aspects of the project, such as thread and fabric choices.Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  2. The Sharp or Microtex Needle.

    These needles have a much sharper point and narrower shaft than other needles. This makes it ideal for lighter weight or more finely woven fabrics like silk, satin, faux suede, and microfiber. It also helps enable perfectly straight stitching which makes it perfect for things like topstitching, edge stitching, and pintucks (which we at Bella Sunshine LOVE to do!)Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  3. The Ballpoint Needle.

    Ballpoint needles are made for knits! Their points are rounded, which allow them to slide through the fibers of the fabric without breaking them. This keeps the integrity and stretch of the fabric intact. They also provide the ability to produce more even stitching on coarser knits (interlocks, cotton spandex) as well as preventing damage to more fragile knits (spandex, brushed polyester) that might snag or run more easily).Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  4. The Denim Needle.

    Denim needles are designed thick and strong with an extremely sharp point. This needle is perfect for powering through thick, tightly woven fabrics such as denim, duck, and canvas. They are also ideal for going through many layers without breaking. In garment making, these would be most commonly used for making winter coats (like Gabriella’s) and heavier jumper dresses or pants.Know Your Needles (And the Fabrics They Go With) - The up close photos of the needles really show there is a difference! Must pin this for future reference.

  5. The Twin or Double Needle.

    Double needles are two needles connected to a single shaft. Their purpose is to mimic a cover stitch, or parallel finishing stitch. This gives the garment a more professional look when completing a garment.

 

We hope you’ve found this helpful and that maybe you’ve learned a little something! If you have any questions about this, please feel free to visit us in our Facebook group here or ask in the comments below and we will do our very best to help! Now that you know about needles, be sure to look at the differences in fabric types. We’ve broken fabrics down into wovens and knits.

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