How To Machine Sew A Buttonhole And Button

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We love doing these little sewing tutorials so much, we decided to do another! Do you know those adorable woven dress patterns (like Juliet!) that have button down backs? Well, today I’m going to teach you how to use your machine to sew a buttonhole AND button! Now, not all machines have the button capability, but even those that do don’t often get used because of fear, or just not realizing it’s an option! So let’s get started!

How To Machine Sew A Buttonhole And Button

Tools

To start, you’ll need:

your machine

fabric

a buttonhole foot

button

thread

That’s it!

Sewing a Machine Buttonhole

You’ll want to start by making sure your buttonholes are clearly marked on your fabric. This is essential to making sure the spacing is even and a row of them will line up correctly. For the purpose of this tutorial, I’m sewing a single hole on a scrap, so I don’t have marks, but on an actual project I would.

Once you have your markings in place, grab your buttonhole foot. It should look something like the picture above. Long and plastic, with a movable piece at the back end. This is where you place your button. And this button is how your machine knows what size to sew the hole. I always find it easier to add the button before attaching it to my machine.

Once the foot is attached and the button in place, you’re ready to go. Place your fabric under the foot, making sure the needle is directly over the end of the buttonhole nearest to you and is straight. Also, make sure you lower the lever to the left of your needle (silver in my picture). That lever and the button are your machine’s way of getting the hole the perfect size.

For this tutorial, I used the standard buttonhole setting (“0” here), but there are other buttonholes you can do too, shown below:

30-33 are all different types of buttonholes too. For the purpose of lightweight woven fabrics, the standard setting is best. Once you have your setting chosen, just hit the pedal and the machine does the rest! Super easy!

The last step is to cut down the center, taking care not to clip any of the stitches. A small, sharp pair of scissors or nippers is best for this job.

 

Sewing a Button

This is one thing I have always been terrified to try, so I’m sure there are a lot of you out there who feel the same. I can confidently say though, that it isn’t as bad as you think! So, grab your button and the standard sewing foot and let’s do this!

Youll start by placing your button under the foot with the holes centered on the foot.

Set your machine to the button setting. Mine looks like a simple drawing of a button.

Now, slowly lower your needle by hand until it goes through the first little hole. Re-adjust as needed. Keep turning until the needle comes up and moves over the next hole. Make sure you’re doing all of this by raising the lowering the needle by hand. If it’s outside the second hole, pause, and readjust the width of your stitch until you have it right. Once you’ve been through both holes by hand in a row, hit that pedal! It’ll finish it up and stop on its own when it’s done! See, I told you it was way scarier in your head!

Now you have a perfectly sewn pair… button and buttonhole together!

Do you have any other tutorials you’d like to see on our blog? Please share in the comments below! We’re always looking for fun new ideas! And don’t forget about our AWESOME community on Facebook where we share our triumphs, ideas, and ask all the questions… not to mention the bragging you can do about all of your awesome BSD makes!

5 Fun Valentine Crafts To Make

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It’s only January, but Valentine’s Day will be here before you know it. Want some fun Valentine crafts to make with or for your kids this year? You’ve come to the right place! We’ve found some great tutorials to share with you so you can get a head start! Just click on each title to take you directly to the tutorial for each project!

5 Fun Valentine Crafts To Make

1. Fingerprint Love Canvas by The Farmwife Crafts

This fun and adorable craft is the perfect thing to make WITH your kids for your significant other! Get everyone in on the fun and love to create a work of art that you can display and look fondly on the whole year though!

2. Duck Tape Candy Pouch by Rachel Teodoro

The preteens and teens in your life will LOVE this one! Get some super colorful and fun duck tape to make these great little candy pouches for some Valentine crafts! Perfect for the older kids to craft and hand out to friends! Besides, who doesn’t love candy? And if you know someone who doesn’t you can stick some other small gift inside. Win-win!

3. Heart Heating Pads by My Golden Thimble

These are great for the women in your life. They were designed to use for cramps, but you could really use them for anything that a heating pad could help. Aching muscles and migraines to name a couple. While designed for adults, kids could potentially help in choosing the fabric and helping to fill the “heating” part of these pads, making this a great collaborative project!

4. Clay-Dough Heart Ornaments by Happy Hooligans

Now, if you need something fun for little littles to make for Valentine’s Day, this is the craft for you! 2 ingredient clay dough glitter heart ornaments are perfect for little hands to mold and give to the people they love! Use them as ornaments, or put them on a longer string for sweet handmade necklaces. I really love this one and will likely be using this tutorial myself with my sweet little kindergartener.

5. Pencil Huggers by Bella Sunshine Designs

 

We posted this fun little project for Valentine crafts last year and had to share it with you again! This craft project is just the thing if you have a child in a candy-free classroom who wants to give a little more than just a simple card to their classmates! It’s a simple and fun little sewing project that you just need felt, a sewing machine and a template for.

Know of any other fun crafts we should share or make a tutorial for? Please share in the comments below! And happy crafting!

5 Ways To Finish Seams For A Professional Look

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Sewing handmade clothing is so much fun! You get the style, fabrics, and fit you always want but can never find in stores. And you can kick that clothing up a notch with these professional looking ways to finish seams WITHOUT a serger!

5 Ways To Finish Seams For A Professional Look

 

Pinking Shears

This is probably the easiest way to finish off your projects to prevent fraying, although I would caution that the other options on this list are more professional looking, this will definitely help your garments stand up to washing and wearing on a regular basis. If you don’t know what they are, pinking shears are scissors that cut in a zigzag pattern. This zigzag, when cut along the edge of your finished seam, will prevent the fabric from unraveling with time.

Zigzag Stitch

A zigzag stitch is the most common way to finish a seam. You can do this one of two ways. You can either run the zigzag down both layers of fabric together or separate the seam out and stitch each layer individually. These stitches, either way you do them, will prevent the fabric from fraying at the edges.

Overlock Stitch

An overlock is my preferred method of finishing seams. If you have a machine with overlock stitches, you simply stitch back down the edge of your seam, making sure the stitches go just off the edge. You will be sewing both layers at once using this method. I love the pretty and professional look it gives along with protecting the edges of your fabric.

Turn Under and Tack Down

This one is less commonly used but can give a fun detail to your work. You accomplish this by first pressing your seams open. Then, turn each edge under so you have a nice folded edge and edge stitch it down. This will leave some nice detail stitching along either side of your seams on the outside of your garment which can be fun if you use a contrasting thread! It’s really when you’re making things like pants, where detail stitching will really stand out.

French Seams

French seams are probably one of the cleanest ways to finish a seam, but it can get tricky at times and is definitely time-consuming. It also does not work well for bulkier fabrics, so keep that in mind when choosing how to finish your seams. Now, a french seam is where you enclose the raw edges completely within your sewing. In order to accomplish this, you will sew every seam twice. For example, Bella Sunshine patterns use a 3/8″ seam allowance. So, you would sew your seam first with WRONG sides together at 1/8″, then fold it back to the regular right sides together and sew it again at 1/4″, enclosing the raw edges. It makes for a very pretty and clean look, but sewing it all twice takes time and patience. Although, I do believe this method dates way back to (and beyond) medieval times when they would often hand stitch all of their garments this way. Interesting, right?

 

That’s all 5! Thanks for stopping by! Feel free to say “Hi!” in the comments below! And come visit us in Facebook land too! We love new friends!

PDF Pattern Series: Printing and Assembling Trimless Patterns

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Bella Sunshine has some exciting news! We are going to start offering our patterns in a trimless option! As of right now, the only pattern that has this option is the Sahara, but rest assured, the rest are coming! Now, don’t worry, if you prefer to trim your pages, that will still be an option too. But the point of today’s post is to show you how much easier the trimless version can be!

PDF Pattern Series: Printing and Assembling Trimless Patterns

Setting up to print

This is just a tad different than the setup we had previously discussed in printing patterns at home. Like always, you want to use your Adobe reader to open your pattern. (You can get it here if you don’t have it already.)

Once you have that open, click on the icon that looks like two pieces of paper hovering over one another. Its the lowest icon on the left sidebar. This will open your layers feature. By default, all sizes will be selected as well as “Trim – Letter/A4”.

You will want to turn off the sizes you don’t need so that only the size(s) you do need are visible. In addition, you’ll want to deselect the trim option and turn on one of the trimless layers. As I print on a standard US printer, I chose Trimless – Letter, but you may need to A4, just choose the file that’s right for you. When you’ve done that, your pattern piece pages should look like this on your screen:

Easy peasy, right? Now select print at the top of the screen. Use the handy little chart (that you can find at the beginning of all of our patterns) to print only the pages you need for your chosen options and size(s). Make sure the printer is set to one-sided printing (if you have this option) and select actual size to make sure your scale will be correct and hit the print button! Now you’re ready to assemble!

 

Assembling trimless pages

Now that you have your printed pages, you’re ready to assemble them! First, check your scale box to make sure everything printed correctly. It will be on the first page of your pattern with a little white box that reads 4cm x 4cm inside a larger grey box labeled 2.5″ x 2.5″.

Once you know your scale is right, it’s really easy! Just line the edge of each page up with the line on the next. Here are two pages, you can see the one on the left will line up with the line down the side on the page to the right.

Just line it up, tape it, and keep going until you have no pieces left! No muss, no fuss! And most importantly, no trimming page edges!

 

If there are any other PDF related tutorials you’d love to see us explain, please leave your suggestion in the comments below! Also, please join us in our Facebook group for fun, support, and sharing!

Easy Gifting Crafts: Hanging Kitchen Towels

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I always have the best intentions of making handmade gifts… and almost every year I fall short on time. I can’t be the only one. So this year, leading up to the holidays, I’ll occasionally be posting a quick and easy crafting tutorial for some great things to gift! Today’s tutorial? Hanging kitchen towels!

Easy Gifting Crafts: Hanging Kitchen Towels

To Prepare:

To start, you will need a  square potholder with a loop, a kitchen towel, and a large button. (Button not pictured here, but you will need one lol)

The first thing you need to do is find the center of your potholder. As most potholders are about 6 inches square, I found it easiest to just lay my acrylic ruler on top of it and mark the center. Keep in mind, some potholders have the loop on a corner. If this is the case, you will mark the corners and your top will be triangular when finished.

I just make little marks at the edges. Ink pen was used here for better visibility in pictures, but you could also use chalk or a fabric marking pen. (Tags were also cut so it didn’t get in the way later.)

Now that that’s done, we need to mark the towel. Measure the length, find the center, and draw a line straight across. You will use this line to gather your towel.

Sewing Your Hanging Towel

To begin the sewing process, you need to gather your towel. So, using the line you drew as a guide, sew your gathering stitches. (You can find various methods of gathering here if you are unsure how to do this.)

Once you have your stitches in, gather your towel to the same width as the potholder.

And then you are going to pin the towel to the potholder right sides together. I start by pinning the center of the towel to the center of the potholder on either side before pinning the center down. This picture shows that my towel is pinned with the graphic sides of both against each other.

When you’re satisfied with the placement, you’ll take it back to your machine and run a straight stitch across the center of everything along the same line you used to make your gathers. Then you’re almost done!

Finishing Touch

Here’s where the button comes in. Find the center top of the potholder on the side without the loop and mark it. Then sew your button on right there. Pull the loop over the button and you’re done! A beautiful hanging towel that should take less than 10 minutes to complete!

Don’t just think of these as Christmas gifts, either! They’re also great for weddings, anniversaries, housewarmings, etc! Personalize it with embroidery or themed towels to make it perfect for your recipient! It’s so easy to make this a perfectly thoughtful gift!

Do you have any tutorial requests for fast and easy gifts? Leave your request in the comments and we’ll do our best to bring you what you’re looking for! Don’t forget to join our Facebook group for news and sharing! We’d love to see you there!

PDF Pattern Series: Printing A0 Files

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Most of us are quite familiar with printing from home, but did you know there’s a way to get your patter all on one sheet or two? You can save SO much time on the assembling and taping by using A0 files! Want to know more? Great!

PDF Pattern Series: Printing A0 Files

A0 files can be handy for a number of reasons. Maybe you want to save paper and/or ink. Maybe you just don’t have a printer at home to print from. Whatever the reason, it can definitely be worth it! There are a number of places you can have A0 printed. Kinkos, Staples, and other office stores normally have the equipment. There are also a number of online options. Our recommendation is PDF Plotting.

I’ll walk you how to place an order with PDF Plotting. Most other printers should have a similar process. One caveat, though. Unfortunately, it is unlikely that you will be able to print single sizes with A0 files, as printers are not allowed to alter the file to print selected layers. As a result, that means patterns like Juliet or Sweet Lilly are still best off printed and assembled at home using single sizes.

PDF Plotting Walk-Through

When you first get to PDF Plotting, you’ll see some drop down menus. Hover over Pattern Printing to see the options. Considering you’ll be getting all of the sizes, my suggestion is to choose color printing, as that will make it easier to see the different size lines for tracing or cutting.

Scroll down until you find the option that says A0 and 36″ by 48″ Color Pattern Printing. At this point, if you haven’t already, check your pattern for how many pages it has in A0 form. Girls Sahara (which I am using for the purpose of this tutorial) has 2, so I selected 2 pages, 1 copy.

Once you’ve selected the number of pages and number of copies, you will see a button that reads “Choose File”. Click that and find your A0 file to print. Make sure it is labeled as an A0 so that it prints correctly. Select your file and click open to attach it to your order. Then Scroll to the bottom of the page and click “Add to Cart”. Keep in mind that PDF Plotting has a minimum order requirement of $7.50. But if you have 2 or more patterns to print, you’ll hit that pretty easily and save a bit on shipping too.

Wrap up

That’s it! Pretty easy, right? Then you just wait for your package and you’re ready to go! If you choose to print locally in a shop, the associates there are usually friendly and willing to help you get it all set up to go. And now that you know, you can have no pattern assembly needed sewing days! How great is that?

If you have helpful hints or tricks to A0 printing or any questions, please leave them in the comments below! And feel free to join our Facebook community for other fun tips, games, and pictures of amazing makes!

PDF Pattern Series: Printing And Assembling At Home

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Now that we’ve covered the very beginner basics, we’ll get into actually USING these patterns! So today, we’ll talk about printing and assembling your patterns at home in preparation of using them to sew! It might be easier than you think.

PDF Pattern Series: Printing And Assembling At Home

Print Prep

Before you can get to printing and assembling anything, you need to make sure you have all of your settings correct. First, make sure you have the correct layers selected to make the cutting easier. You can find the layers tutorial here.

Once you have the sizes sorted, I find it helpful to write down which pages I’ll need. Especially if you’re dealing with a pattern that includes a lot of options. It saves paper, ink, and some headache later if you only print what you NEED. Fortunately, Bella Sunshine patterns include a chart at the beginnings of all of their patterns to show you exactly what you need to print, eliminating the guesswork!

Print Setup

Print setup is CRUCIAL to making sure your pattern prints correctly. If it’s off, your sizing and everything else will be off… no fun! Thankfully, setup is easy once you know what you’re looking at!

There are 2 main things I always look for. The first will not be a concern for everyone, but if you have a printer that prints two-sided, you’ll want to make sure that option is turned OFF. Secondly, check that the sizing is set to ACTUAL SIZE. Anything else runs the very real risk of things ending up skewed and then you will get an end result that is ill-fitting. This is also where you’ll type in the page numbers you want/need to print so that you aren’t wasting paper and ink on the things you don’t need. Once it’s all set up right, hit that print button and you’re ready to assemble!

(note: I will typically just print the first page to start with in order to check the sizing square. This is an important step and is used to ensure your scale is correct.)

Assembling Your Trim Style Pattern

The next step in your printing and assembling adventure is the assembling. There are 2 different ways that a designer can format their pattern. Trim, or no trim. Today, we’ll discuss the trim version. Next week we’ll talk about no-trim pages.

Without Trimming

So… you’ll start with your printed out pattern. The pages should (in theory) all be in order. Most designers have pages numbered, which will likely come in handy (especially if they manage to somehow become out of order).

How to Trim and Assemble

If you’re on the lazy end of the spectrum (*cough*likeme*cough*), you don’t have to actually trim your pages if you don’t want to. If you look at the picture above, you can see the line of the border from the bottom page through the top page. Simply place those lines directly over each other and tape it.

If you’re concerned about lining it up correctly, or you can’t see the lines through the paper, you will need to trim. I find the easiest way to do this is to cut along the border on 2 adjacent sides. Preferably the left and top (although I managed to cut the bottom instead for these examples).

Now, you’ll carefully line up the cut edge with the line on the uncut page and tape. The triangles along the border will also line up to form a diamond shape which will help you make sure it’s lined up perfectly.

When you get to the next row, it’s just the same on a shorter side. And with the rows, you have options. You can keep taping one page at a time like this, or (my preference), you can tape each row completely together and then tape the full rows together. Either way you go, when you’re done you should have a complete pattern ready to cut out!

I really hope this was helpful! Next week the plan is to show you what no trim pages look like and how they go together! Thanks for joining us! Let us know how we’re doing in the comments below!

PDF Pattern Series: Learning About Layers

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Welcome back to our informative series about using PDF sewing patterns! So far we’ve told you why they are so amazing and talked about some storage options. Today, we’re going to learn about layers, what they are, and how to use them effectively. I’ll be using the lovely Amelia pattern in my screenshots to show you how it’s done. Ready? I am!

PDF Pattern Series: Learning About Layers

One of my favorite things about PDF patterns has to be the layers feature. With it, you can print just the size you need. Or, if you need to blend sizes, the two (or three) sizes you need. So we’re going to walk through how the layers feature works. I promise it’s super simple!

Finding Your Layers

BSD patterns come equipped with the layers feature, but unfortunately not all brands do. I’ll show you how to tell. First, you’ll want to open your pattern in the Adobe reader.

Next, look for the layers icon. I’ve circled it in the screenshot below. If you see this icon that means your pattern includes the layers feature. If not, you’ll just have to watch the key to make sure you’re cutting the right cut lines. I think most designers are using layer now, though, which makes the assembling and cutting process SO much nicer!

Now, you’ll want to click on the little arrow next to the pattern name in the sidebar. This will open up the size options so you can select the size or sizes you need.

Using Your Layers

From here, you’ll click on the eye icons for the sizes you don’t need. The eye means it is visible. If you’re sewing a straight size you should only have on layer visible. When you are blending sizes to get the right fit, then you’ll need to leave all pertinent layers visible so you can do your grading once you have your pieces printed and assembled.

Once that’s done, you’re left with a very clean pattern in only the size or sizes you need and you’re ready to print! See? Super simple! And now that you know, cutting your patterns will never be hard again (as long as they include the layers feature).

Did you learn something new today? I hope you did! Now, feel free to share which tidbit of information was new to you today! As always, if you aren’t already a member, feel free to join us in our Facebook community for questions, triumphs, and fun! Next week we’ll take a look at printing and assembling your PDF patterns at home, so be ready!

How to Apply Fold Over Elastic (FOE)

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When making some garment items, we might want a more delicate look than bands can supply, and maybe with a little more stretch than traditional knit binding can get you. FOE to the rescue! Fold over elastic (or FOE) is a great way to accomplish what you’re trying to do. It can feel intimidating (I know from experience), but if you do it the right way, it’s a breeze! So let me show you an easy way to apply FOE!

How to Apply Fold Over Elastic (FOE)

What You Need:

The garment in need of binding

FOE

A sewing machine

Thread matching the FOE

A walking foot (not required, but highly recommended)

Step One:

Quarter your foe and the openings needing to be bound. This is relatively simple. Stick a pin in the seam of your FOE and then fold the FOE at that point to find it’s exact opposite point. Place a pin at that point. Open the FOE out again and place the two pins right against each other to create the quarter marks and place pins in both of those folds. You now have a quartered elastic piece!

With the garment openings, this will go a little differently. If you are binding a leg or armhole, your first pin should go in a  side seam, which you will match with the FOE seam in a later step. Once you have your first pin placed, proceed as you did with the elastic, making sure to match edges to ensure you are marking evenly.

If you are binding the neck or waist opening or a garment, your best bet is to find the center front by matching shoulder (for a neck opening) or side (for a waist opening) seams and marking the exact center. Repeat for the back. With a waist opening, you can generally just mark side seams for the quarters. If binding a neck opening, please do not just mark the shoulder seams! This will rarely give you a true quartering. Instead, take your time to match from and back centers and carefully match your edges as you find your true quarter. For the purposes of this tutorial, I am using underwear for my photos. But you can find pictures of a properly quartered neck opening in our blog on adding a neckband here.

Step Two:

The next step is to pin your elastic to the opening. Just stick with me here. You’re going to pin the wrong sides of the elastic and the garment together with the elastic *just* over half off of the fabric. Start with your quarter markers and then fill in extra pins between to keep it even. Your elastic should be slightly smaller than the opening. When you’re done it should look like this from the outside:

So just over half of the elastic should be showing above that raw edge. Ok, flip it back inside out.

Step Three:

With your garment inside out, stitch along the very edge of the elastic with a stretch or zigzag stitch. Be VERY careful as you go that you are NOT stretching the fabric, and only stretching the elastic as much as you need to to get a perfect fit. A really great way to accomplish this is to use a walking foot. Now, I’ll have to admit, that this project was my first ever use of a walking foot and I’m basically in love. It makes sewing stretch anything SO much easier! They aren’t really all that expensive and worth every penny!

Step Four:

Now that the elastic is attached, we get to the tricky part. You want to fold your elastic over the raw edge, trapping it inside the elastic, and pin it down. Take care to pin it down over the stitches you just made, so that they won’t show when you’re all done. For this, I had to run my pins the long way, parallel to my stitches and pull them out as I went. Again, you’ll want to stitch as close to that elastic edge as you can manage without going off. This is where the FOE-matching thread is important because if it matches, nobody will see your stitches. I used a contrasting thread so you all can see what I’m doing.

That’s it! Once you’ve been around the outside, you should have a great looking FOE bound opening! Just think of all the adorable undies and amazing tanks you can make with your new skills!

If you have an idea for a tutorial you’d like to see us do, please leave your suggestions in the comments below! We’re always open to new ideas! And if you want to share your outstanding new FOE skills with BSD patterns, please join our great Facebook community! We’d love to have you!

5 Fun Craft Projects For Back To School!

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Back to school has always been dreaded by most children, while celebrated by most parents. What can we do to make the transition more fun for our kids? How about some fun craft projects for back to school that they can use when they go back? We’ve searched for some awesome projects featured on other blogs and we’re going to share them with you! So, without further ado…

5 Fun Craft Projects For Back To School!

Vinyl Pouch Tutorial by Bonjour Quilts

This is a super fun see-through pouch that can be jazzed up with a fun print and colorful zipper at the top! Kids will love it when you make it with their favorite prints. And it can help them with organizing their school supplies. Everything within sight and easy to reach! It’s a quick and easy sew that will be a hit with the back to school bunch.

Felt Apple Garland by Heather Handmade

While maybe not as “useful”, this felt apple garland is adorable and would make a fantastic gift for a new teacher. It’s so simple and sweet and I could totally see it dangling cutely from the front of a teacher’s desk or across the top of a whiteboard.

Fabric Scraps Memory Game by Apple Green Cottage

If you have children entering preschool (or maybe a toddler jealous of older siblings going off to school), this one is fun! They can get their own back to school game! Just a few fabric scraps, a machine, and a little time and you have a fun (and durable) memory game that can travel anywhere easily! Use their favorite character fabrics to make it even more fun! And pair it with the vinyl pouch tutorial above for an easy storage solution to keep it all together!

Taco Zipper Pouch by On The Cutting Floor

This one is great even for the older kids! How cool is a taco pouch! I know my teen boy will jump at the chance to carry his pencils around in this one. It’s fun and colorful and just the right touch of trendy and unique to make it an instant winner!

Calico Cat Pencil Case by Sewing a la Carte

This last one is a HUGE dose of cute! Don’t be alarmed by the Dutch language you see when you click, if you scroll down there is a complete set of instructions in English too! I’m completely in love with this pouch, as I’m sure any kitty-loving child will be too! This one ups the difficulty lever by a smidge, but it’s still relatively easy to accomplish.

HUGE thanks to Bonjour Quilts, Apple Green Cottage, Heather Handmade, On the Cutting Floor, and Sewing a la Carte for sharing these amazing craft projects for back to school with us today! I hope you’ve enjoyed this little mini-craft roundup! If you have any new fun back to school craft ideas, please share them in the comments below! And please join us in our Facebook group if you haven’t already! You don’t want to miss out on all the fun! See you next week!

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