How to Tie a Flat Knot

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There are exciting things coming to Bella Sunshine very soon! And one of those things will mean tying pretty knots! So I’m here to help with that. Now, I’m not going to lie. Tying a flat knot is not the easiest thing to do. In fact, it took me three days of practicing to get it good enough to post here. But like a lot of things, once you get it you’ve got it and it’ll be smooth sailing from that point on. So, are you ready to learn how to tie a flat knot? Great! Let’s get to it!

How to Tie a Flat Knot

First thing you need is the thing you’re tying. For the purposes of this tutorial, I will be using the straps for soon-to-be-released overall pattern, Oceana.

I can’t wait to share the release post with you all so you can see how truly adorable this pattern is! But, for now, I’ll have to settle for teasing you with the straps and showing you how to get a good pretty tie on it.

Step 1

First, cross your straps with them both pointing the same direction. I crossed right over left because I found that easiest. I should also note that this knot is extremely hard to tie while the garment is being worn by a wiggly body. I found it MUCH easier to tie (and have it be pretty) before she put them on.

Step 2

Next, you’re going to take the strap on top and fold it around the bottom strap. At this point, you will see the lining side of the top strap.

Step 3

This step is simple! Just bend the bottom strap down to expose the lining on that strap as well. At this point, you’ll want to make sure everything is still as flat as you can make it. I promise that it is imperative in getting this knot just right!

Step 4

Now, fold that bottom strap up and bring the top strap down to cross it. You’ll have them both main side up again. Then just fold that top strap around and slide it through the loop you just made!

Finishing the knot

Here’s the tricky part. While tightening that knot, you need to keep everything from moving too much while giving a half twist to that top strap in order to keep the main side up. Once it’s mostly tight you might have to fiddle with it a bit to make sure that only the single flat loop is showing on the top of the knot with an end coming out (right side up) on either side.

After some adjusting, the knot above will look like these! Perfectly pretty and ready for wearing! You can also use this method for tying sashes, ribbon, and with things as well!

Did you enjoy this tutorial! I really hope so! Are there other things you’d like us to explain for you? Please share them in the comments! And come to visit our Facebook group if you feel inclined! We love making new friends and seeing new faces!

The Hem to Skirt Correlation

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Do you make skirts? Or plan to/dream of it? Then I have some information that might just come in handy! Did you know different kinds of skirts need different hem allowances? If you did (or didn’t but do now), do you wonder why? Because there is a reason! Let me share and add another little pocket of information to your sewing knowledge!

The Hem to Skirt Correlation

A hem is the bit of fabric folded back to the inside of a garment and stitched down. It not only adds to a professional look, but it also plays a role in the ultimate durability of that garment. Many people don’t know this, but the silhouette of a skirt plays a large role in determining its correct hem allowance. For example:

Straight skirt:

Skirts that are straight up and down (like a pencil skirt) made with a medium to heavy weight fabric will typically have a wider hem. This 1 1/2 to 2-inch hem actually helps keep the skirt straight with the weight of the hem.

A-line skirt:

With its wider silhouette, an A-line skirt needs a slightly narrower hem to cut back on the bulk and keep it from looking too clunky. But leaving it at 1 1/2 inches will help add a little bit of structure to keep its shape looking good. Our Sophia in dress length offers this great shape!

Flared skirt:

A flared skirt, such as a half circle skirt, will need a narrower hem yet, for the same reasons. Basically, the wider the bottom of the skirt, the narrower you will want the hem to be. So for this silhouette, you’ll want about a 1-inch hem. Many Bella Sunshine patterns use a flared skirt. Pictured is our lovely Felicity without the ruffle option.

Circle skirt:

This is about as full of a skirt as you can get. As such, it will have the narrowest hem allowance. This will allow it to drape and flow (and twirl!) the most freely. The recommended hem would be 1/2″, but you can go even narrower or omit completely if you’re sewing it in a knit fabric (like if you’re sewing up a Sahara!).

There you go! Another skirt mystery solved! Are there any other mysteries you’d like us to shed some light on? Share your ideas in the comments below! And join us in our Facebook group for fun and support!

Understanding Fabric Grain: Pattern Layout

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Now that we have a better understanding of how fabric grain works, we can apply that to your prep for getting ready to sew. Primarily, in how to lay your pattern out on your fabric for the best results. For some, this is second nature already, but I remember being new to sewing and having no idea how huge an impact this can have on your finished product. So, if you are like the me of the past (or even if you aren’t… you never know what you might learn), please follow along!

Understanding Fabric Grain: Pattern Layout

Fabric Prep: Pre-Shrinking

When preparing to sew a new garment, it’s important to make sure you have all of your prep work properly done to achieve the most successful results. The first step is to pre-shrink your fabric. This is important because if you do not do this and you sew a garment to fit perfectly, it might not fit the same (or at all) after laundering.

For most things, this means running the fabric through a rinse cycle and then the dryer. (It’s also a good idea to finish the raw edges before pre-shrinking!) If your fabric is wool, lay it on a flat surface that fully supports the full piece, hover an iron a few inches above it, and continually release steam onto the fabric. Allow the wool to dry completely before moving or cutting it to make sure it is fully through with the shrinking process. alternatively, you could finish the raw edges and have it dry cleaned. If your fabric is synthetic, you don’t necessarily need to do any pre-shrinking, as these fabrics do not shrink. But if you plan to sew a silk garment that you intend to handwash in the future, you might want to handwash the fabric first.

Fabric Prep: Alignment

Another important step that often gets overlooked is to make sure your fabric is properly aligned. This means that the lengthwise and crosswise grains are perfectly perpendicular (or at right angles) to each other. To tell whether the fabric is properly aligned, fold the selvage edges together and take a good look at it. If the fabric is laying completely flat, you’re good to go! If not, fold the fabric together along the bias grain. Take hold of the opposite corners and tug on it gently a few times. Then repeat the folding the selvages together to check if the fabric lays flat. If not, repeat the above until it does.

Pattern Layout

Before you plan your pattern layout, look at your fabric. Make sure that when you lay out your pattern that you will not have an upside-down design if your print is directional. Or that you will not have an unfortunate pattern placement. (This is especially important if the design in your fabric includes large flowers or circles). The same applies to napped fabric. You’ll want to make sure the nap lays the same way across the whole garment.

One of the most important rules of pattern layout is to make sure you follow the grain (or stretch) lines. If it’s a woven pattern, your pieces should have a grainline that should be placed exactly parallel to the selvage edges. With a knit pattern, you will more likely see a stretch line, it will run parallel to the cross grain.

The reason following these lines is so important is because the way you lay out your pattern will affect how that garment will hang off of a body when it’s finished. 

Checking Yardage

My next tip is the best advice I was ever given. Make sure you KNOW you have enough fabric before cutting a single piece. The most effective way to check this is to lay out your fabric. Gather all of your pattern pieces. Lay them all out on the fabric with their proper orientation (following grain/stretch lines). This is to make sure it will all fit on the piece of fabric you intend to use.

If you have pieces that need to be cut on a fold, you can fold the fabric up enough to get the piece on a fold in its proper alignment. In the picture above, I laid the top piece down right next to the bottom. I then flipped it up one more time to make sure the whole piece would fit when placed on a fold. Now, to cut this, I will need to unfold the fabric. Then fold it up just enough to fit one piece. And then repeat that for the second piece. Hopefully, that’s clear enough that you get the idea.

That should be all you need to know to get started! I hope you learned something new today because learning is good! And if you ever have any questions, please feel free to ask them in the comments below or join our Facebook group!

Understanding Fabric Grain: Getting to Know Wovens

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A question that often comes up with people newer to sewing (and even sometimes from people who have been sewing for a while) is this: What is a grainline and why is it important? Now, with knit fabrics, this is all a bit different. And I’ll touch on that next week… But if you’re sewing up an Alice or Juliet it is crucial to getting it all right with wovens! So today I’m going to help you out and explain the grain!

 

Understanding Fabric Grain: Getting to Know Wovens

How Grain Works:

The straight grain of woven fabric will run parallel to the selvage edges. This grain has very little to no give if you tug on it and is quite stable. When making garments, this grain will most often run straight up and down the body.

The cross grain runs perpendicular to the selvage (or from selvage to selvage) and will generally have a little bit of stretch. The cross grain is typically what will go around (or across) the body, as the little bit of stretch will help with some fitted looks.

Bias is what you get when you cut the fabric at a 45-degree angle from the selvage. It is how fabric is cut for making bias tape for binding. And occasionally you’ll need to cut fabric on the bias for certain patterns. The bias will stretch more than the cross grain, which is what makes it so perfect for bindings. It will easily stretch and ease around curves because of its elasticity. 

Finding the Grain:

If you find yourself with a piece of fabric with no selvages, there is a fairly simple way to figure it out. Just test the stretch. Remember that fabric has more stretch on the cross grain. Once you have that established, you can just pull out a thread or two along the straight grain to help remember and to help line up your pattern pieces correctly.

Thank you so much for joining us for our post today! Did you learn something new? I hope you did! Is there something you’d like us to explain? If you have any suggestions for future informative posts please either let us know in the comments below or come on over to our Facebook group and make a post! We love getting fresh ideas!

Primrose Panties~ The Sew-Along! Is Coming!

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It’s been a while, but we’re gearing up for our next sew-along over in the Bella Sunshine Sew Along group on Facebook! And our featured pattern this go round? The brand new and fabulous Primrose Panties, of course!

Primrose Panties~ The Sew-Along! Is Coming!

What is a sew along? Well, it’s basically a group of people all sewing the same pattern at the same time. Why? Camaraderie, bragging rights, help… and prizes! Yes, prizes! It’s always great fun too, so there’s that! We typically give some random small prizes during the sew-along, and then we have three BIG winners at the end who each receive $20 in credit on the Bella Sunshine site!

With this sew-along, it’s important to note that you are eligible to win no matter what size or style you sew up! So doll, girl, and ladies Primrose Panties are all eligible for prizes… and you do NOT have to post modeled pics to win either, so please don’t stress about that! Flat lays are perfect (and encouraged!). Sew one, sew a bunch, sew one from each of the size ranges if you purchase the bundle! Our only requirements are to be creative and HAVE FUN!

You want specifics? Ok, here they are! The sew-along will start next Monday (2/25). You can get the Ladies pattern here, Girls here, Ladies and Girls bundle here, Doll here, Girl and Doll bundle here… Or just grab all three with the full bundle here. Then head over to the sew along group (link above) and stay tuned for details! I really hope to see you all there! It’s going to be a blast!

5 Great Gift Ideas For Seamstresses

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The holidays are coming! (And in some cases, are already here.) Which means it’s time to get your thinking cap on to find some thoughtful perfect gifts for the people you love. And chances are, if you’re here, you sew. And if you sew, you likely have friends who do as well. Am I right? Well, I’m here today to help you find some great gift ideas for the seamstress(es) in your life!

5 Great Gift Ideas For Seamstresses

Scissors

Good fabric scissors are hard to come by. So a good pair of shears will always be loved and appreciated! Want to go that extra mile? Make a permanent tag for the handle that labels them “For Fabric ONLY”!

Cutting Mat and Acrylic Ruler

This is an especially great gift idea if you are buying for a quilter. Cutting mats and rotary cutters are pretty crucial tools in quilting and also come in quite handy in other types of sewing as well. I know I would LOVE to get a new mat and ruler!

Rotary Cutter

This kind of goes hand in hand with the mat and ruler. Very handy for cutting straight lines and also works great for curves once you have the hang of it. I don’t cut any patterns without mine anymore!

Fabric Store Gift Cards

What seamstress doesn’t love new fabric! But with so many different types, and prints, and colors… it’s hard to know what would actually be useful and loved. A gift card is a perfect solution for that! I can just about guarantee that they will think of you when sewing and/or using the item made from the fabric that is purchased with this card.

And lastly… *drumroll*

Bella Sunshine Designs Gift Cards!

Yes, you read that right! Starting now, Bella Sunshine is offering gift cards that can be used to purchase any and all of our adorable patterns! It’s so exciting and we are ecstatic to be able to offer this as an option in our shop now! So, if you are buying gifts for someone who sews clothing and loves a great fit with an occasional vintage flair, Bella Sunshine has your back!

Black Friday Blowout Sale!

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We all love a good sale, right? We had a great one planned for Black Friday. But then something happened. Our Facebook group hit 2o,000 members! Exciting, right? Well, we had to do something for that! Party time! In honor of the upcoming holiday and thus HUGE milestone, we’re having a Black Friday Blowout SALE!

Black Friday Blowout Sale!

 

Details are simple. Everything is on sale! Awesome, right? It gets better! EVERYTHING in the pattern shop is 40% off! What?!?! AND It’s all on sale through Cyber Monday! Woot!

With winter well on its way (here in Wisconsin, anyway) I want to share a few of my absolute favorite patterns for cold weather sewing. Bella Sunshine definitely has more than a few great ones!

Gabriella’s

Gabriella’s Winter Coat is the only sew on this list that only comes in girls sizing, but it is such an amazing pattern! This fully lined little coat looks store bought once done, and since it was designed for wool, it could easily be one of the warmest coats in her closet. I won’t lie, it isn’t easy, but it is SO worth every tiny bit of effort it takes! And for only $5.40 right now on sale, how can you not?

Apple Cardigan

The Apple cardigan is great for those transitional days, or cooler days (if you live in a warmer climate). It’s also perfect for layering over long sleeves or under coats for a little added bit of warmth with a fashionable flair. The extended sizing makes it great for mommy and me pairings too! You can get the bundle with ALL of the sizes for only $8.40 through Cyber Monday!

Sansa Flares

You can’t have winter without pants. At least not in most of the US you can’t. The Sansa Flares work well because of the flare. Perfect for boots, right? They’re also flattering on SO many different body types! And can we talk about how adorable they are on the little ones? I can’t even. Plus, the price can’t be beat. The full bundle is on sale for $9.00!

Maggie

Maggie is a great staple because it can fit all the seasons. Her versatility is why she will forever be one of my favorites. In the winter months, the long sleeves are perfect. And you can make it in any of the three lengths without a problem. And being a busty girl myself, I just have to mention the built-in full bust adjustment that is included in all Bella Sunshine women’s patterns to my fellow curvy girls!  During this sale, you can get the full range of sizes, children’s through women’s for $8.40!

Emmaline

Most people see her as more of a sundress, but have you SEEN some of the formal looking dresses made from Emmaline? She lends herself to elegance. And the maxi length certainly works with the colder weather too! Plus, you have three different sleeve lengths and two different skirt styles to choose from which makes her versatile like Maggie. And who doesn’t love getting multiple looks all in one pattern? She’s the perfect choice if you’re looking for something with beauty AND comfort for all of those rockin’ holiday parties! Get all of the sizes in one bundle for just $10.80 through our Black Friday sale!

 

And while you’re grabbing these gems for cheap, don’t forget to also grab the Eden Leggings and Reagan Raglan for free! They’re also great choices for cold weather projects!

If you haven’t joined our Facebook group yet, you should consider it… There might just be an extra little surprise coming out in there for Black Friday! (*wink wink nudge nudge*)

PDF Pattern Series: What They Are And Why They Rock!

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I know for many, this may be an unnecessary post, but we feel like there are enough people out there that could use this information, that we are creating a whole series of posts on what a PDF pattern is and how to effectively use them. So if you’re a fan, follow along… you might learn something you didn’t know before, and that’s always fun. First up in the series… What is a PDF pattern? And what makes them so awesome?

PDF Pattern Series: What They Are And Why They Rock!

What is a PDF pattern?

A sewing pattern is basically a template of pieces that you use to assemble a finished product. A PDF sewing pattern is a digital version of that which includes the pieces and instructions you will need in order to successfully sew a complete garment. You can find PDF patterns to make a wide variety of things. Clothing, bedding, wallets, purses, bags, stuffed animals, home decor items… literally just about anything.

Why do they rock?

There are SO many reasons that PDF patterns are absolutely amazing! Let’s just walk through some of those reasons.

Storage

For one, storage of them is SO much easier since they’re digital. Could you imagine how much room hundreds of paper patterns would take up? Now think about how great it would be to have all of those patterns stored in the cloud? At your fingertips and perfectly organized whenever you want or need them? Never lost to some random corner of your house or dragged off by a child or animal? It’s a definite bonus.

Cost

While they may not always be as immediately inexpensive as a paper pattern on sale at JoAnn’s, I can promise you that you will ultimately be saving money. Let me explain. First of all, with most PDF patterns, you will get ALL of the sizes included as opposed to just a few. A whole range of kid’s sizes, or women’s, or men’s… So with one pattern, you have it all! You also need to consider how much wider the range of sizes is with most PDF designers. Us plus-sized girls can get all the cute we want for us now too! Plus, if you lose your pieces? Or your kid outgrows a size? Just reprint it! No need to repurchase!

Ease of Use/Support

Once you get used to using PDF patterns, you’ll likely never want to go back. They tend to include much more comprehensive explanations and instructions than traditional patterns. Plus, most PDF designers have facebook groups (like Bella Sunshine), where you can talk directly to the designer or loads of other talented seamstresses if you get stuck and need a little help figuring something out. Community makes sewing so much more enjoyable! And then you have the perfect place to show off your creations too!

Instant Gratification

Shopping for PDF Patterns is the ultimate in instant gratification! Browse from the comfort of wherever you are… no getting dressed, going to crowded stores, standing in long lines… You can shop at ANY time of the day or night. In the wise words of one of our fans, “I can buy them without having to wear pants. Apparently, Joanne’s frowns on that.”

More Current Styles

PDF designers are constantly looking for all the newest trends and designing for them, so the clothes you make will always be in style! Plus, if you’re talented enough, you can take those patterns and hack them into some pretty amazing cosplay/Halloween costumes!

Sturdier

One of the things that always made me cringe with paper patterns was that flimsy tissue paper it’s printed on. It tears so easily, it’s hard to get back into the envelope… and if you happen to accidentally get it wet? Forget about it, it’s toast. With a PDF, you print it on regular paper. And while I’ll admit, it’s mildly inconvenient to have to piece them together, ultimately, I’d rather do that then deal with the tissue.

Layers

Many PDF pattern designers are now using the layers feature when creating their patterns. What does this mean? It means, when you open your pattern in the Adobe reader, you can choose which size(s) you need and ONLY print that! No more confusing intersecting lines and trying to decipher what’s supposed to go where with what. SO much simpler. And if you’re blending sizes, only seeing the lines you NEED to see is a benefit you can’t ignore!

I’m sure there are bonuses that I’m forgetting, so if you have a great reason to love PDF patterns that I haven’t mentioned, please add it to the comments below! And I’ll be back next week with more PDF fun!

10-Year-Old Award Winning Seamstress’ Triumph

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While perusing Facebook sewing groups, we ran across a post made by a woman named Lea O’Reilly in which she shared her 10-year-old award winning seamstress’ triumph in obtaining 5 major awards in 2 different fairs with a dress she sewed herself. We found this very inspiring. And also very impressive. So we requested an interview with the mother and got to interview the girl herself! Let’s see what she has to say about sewing, her award-winning dress, and her plans for her future!

10-Year-Old Award Winning Seamstress’ Triumph

 

The girl’s name is Serenity Ventura (which is an awesome name!) and this is her interview.

So, Serenity, how long have you been sewing and what got you into it?

I’ve been sewing for almost 5 years and I started sewing because I joined 4-H and it looked like fun.

That’s so cool! Do you use Bella Sunshine patterns very often? And which are your favorites?

I have been using their patterns often and I like the Sahara and the Amelia. The Amelia crossover is what I used for the top of my dress.

The one that you submitted for your fair project right?

Yeah!

That dress was so gorgeous! Can you tell me more about your fair project?

Sure, I really liked the Amelia top and the candy castle dress bottom so I decided to put them together. The top and bottom of both had cutting and sewing on the bias. It was hard to hold all the layers together but it was fun to make. Crossing over the front of the Amelia was interesting and wasn’t as hard as I thought. I made 2. One for my 5th-grade graduation and the other for fair. My one for graduation didn’t do well at a 4-H event but I tried again for fair. The different knits acted differently when I made the tops, probably because the skirt was heavy.

That’s a fair assumption. Can you tell me what awards you dress won and at which fairs?

It was entered into the San Diego County Fair and it won Best in Show and 2 Donated Awards and then it was entered at the Ramona Jr Fair in Ramona, CA where it won Home Economics Best in Division for Junior Sewing (ages 5-13) and Home Economics Reserve Best in Show Overall, for all ages and divisions.

That’s amazing! Do you have any plans for the next fair?

I want to do a 3 piece outfit. A jacket, shirt, and pants and work with new materials.

That’s ambitious. What materials?

Wool, twill, and challis.

That sounds challenging, but I’m sure you can pull it off!

Thank you. I want to try making Gabriella’s winter coat next. It looks really cute.

I love Gabriella! It’s one of my favorites. Do you think that will be your next project?

Yes, it will!

What do you think your sewing future looks like? Is this something you plan to continue doing?

Yes, I want to start my own business soon. I also want to make my own patterns and I want to continue to make my skills better.

What kind of business?

My own clothing business so I can make things such as sports wear, dresses, shirts and leggings.

Thank you so much for talking with me! And please make sure you or your mom shares your Bella Sunshine projects in our group! We LOVE seeing young talent!

Thank you, we will!
I want to thank Serenity and her mother Lea again for a wonderful interview with an extremely talented young seamstress! We wish her all the luck with her future endeavors and expect to see great things from her!

The Search For 5 Great (Non-Custom) Knit Retailers!

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With so many amazingly adorable knit patterns out there, it’s sometimes hard to find JUST the right print. And if you’re on a budget it gets even tougher. So today we’ve compiled a list of 5 great online knit retailers for buying gorgeous knits on a budget!

The Search For 5 Great (Non-Custom) Knit Retailers!

1. Purple Seamstress

Melinda Dozal (or Mel, as she is fondly known by her customers) is the owner of Purpleseamstress Fabric. It began as a hobby on eBay but took off in a big way. It allowed her to retire from her full-time court reporter job to do what she loves best; playing with fabric! She now has her website (linked above) and a Facebook page where she is very successful. And her customers all swear she has magical shipping fairies because her shipping speed is almost unreal. She sells all kinds of different knits in solids as well as in some beautiful prints and her prices are very reasonable!

2. Southern Belle Fabrics

Southern Belle Fabrics has a goal to inspire your creativity by offering the high-quality apparel fabrics at affordable prices. Southern Belle sources all of their fabrics in the USA in order to help support our nation’s economy. They are located in the Heart of Texas, so hospitality is second nature to them. On their site, you can find some amazingly affordable gorgeous knit fabrics and outstanding customer service that they try to provide to each and every customer. Definitely a retailer worth a purchase!

3. Knitpop

Knitpop is another great domestic knit retailer with awesome fabrics at even more awesome prices. It is based in San Diego and run by Sara Jaggers Knook, who is a very sweet and personable lady. Knitpop carries a very wide variety of knit fabrics and is a clear favorite of their followers. If you’ve never ordered from them before, it’s worth mentioning that they offer $5 off your first purchase plus 25% in Rewards when you create a new profile on the site. Rewards for future purchases are 5% and they offer bulk discounts!. They also have some pretty mind-blowing sales, so make sure you check them out during one!

4. Sincerely Rylee

This is a business that has been mentioned in our blog before for good reason! Darcey Johnston, owner, and operator of Sincerely Rylee is based in Florida and is a very beloved member of the online fabric community. Her customer service and warm personality are two of the many keys to her success. Her business is best known for sweater knits and mystery boxes, although she does carry a wide variety of gorgeous and affordable knit fabrics perfect for the whole family. This is definitely a business to follow if you’re into knits.

5. Droomstoffen

For this last fabric business, we’re traveling a little farther from (my) home… Droomstoffen means Dream fabrics in English. Yvette is 31 years old with one son and two bonus daughters who she loves like her own. She started Droomstoffen 3 years ago in Almere Centrum, Netherlands. After 6 months they moved 3 doors down to a larger store. The shop is growing every day and now includes a pretty impressive web presence. They carry a variety of fabrics including many Scandinavian and German prints. They specialize in jersey, French terry, and other stretch fabric. And good news for us in the States! She ships internationally!

In fact, Droomstoffen has generously offered to give away a $20 shop credit to one of our readers! Enter HERE for your chance to win! We will draw and announce a winner next Saturday!

And Knitpop is giving away a 3-monthKnitpop subscription! You can enter that giveaway HERE! Good luck!

Make sure you check back with us next week to see a whole week of amazing school sews on our Back To School Blog Tour!!!

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