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Announcement: Reagan Sew Along Coming!

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We have a fun announcement for you all! Another sew along! Starting this Saturday, we will be sewing along with the Reagan Raglan! Want more details? Here’s what’s up!

Announcement: Reagan Sew Along Coming!

The premise of a sew along is simple! Visit the blog and read up on that day’s steps, complete those steps, and share! In the end, we will all have adorable little (or adult) raglans to share! And the best part? Prizes! That’s right! Everyone who completes the sew along and shares pictures of their final creations is entered to win a prize at the end! There will be 3 $10 Bella Sunshine gift cards awarded. One for each category: Admins Choice, People’s Choice, or Random Draw! Do you want in? Just come to the Bella Sunshine facebook group to share your progress and keep an eye on this blog for the steps!

What will you need?

To complete the sew along you will need fabric, a machine, thread, pins and the pattern. Oh, and internet access. That’s pretty important too.

Surprise!

There’s more! Melissa has been working hard to make this free pattern even more phenomenal! If you haven’t downloaded this pattern recently, you might want to consider replacing the file, because it has new treats for you all! She has added a rounded neckline to all sizes for those who don’t want or struggle with a v-neck AND she’s expanded out to plus sizes in the Ladies version! How great is that?

You can get the pattern in Ladies or Kids sizes for FREE by checking out the pinned post in the group for a special code! Come join us for fun, support and prizes as we sew this easy wardrobe staple! See you soon!

Check out the schedule below to know what to expect.

10 Ways to Take Your Quality to the Next Level

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I often hear seamstresses ask how they can improve their sewing quality.  While having a fancy new machine or using quality textiles definitely helps, there are some other really easy things that you can do to help improve your sewing quality. I’ve come up with 10 easy-to- apply tips that can help you improve the quality of the garments that you sew. And the best thing is, they can all be applied today!

10 Ways to Take Your Quality to the Next Level

 

1: Press Everything

Press your fabric before you cut, press every single seam you sew. Grab your iron when your hem when it’s done. Press EVERYTHING.  You should be spending as much time at the ironing station as you do at the sewing machine. Knit or woven, makes no difference. But the difference you will see when you use the iron for everything will blow you away.

 

2: Clip Curves and Corners

If you are sewing a seam on curve or one that comes to a point, do yourself a favor and clip those curves and notch those corners after you are done sewing the seam.  Nothing can ruin a beautiful curved neckline faster than not clipping your fabric.  This will help it lie flat and look much more professional.

 

3: Use Rulers

Measure, measure measure. This is especially important when you are cutting a pattern with rectangles, but it’s also equally important when doing things like hemming.  Don’t guess at what 1/2″ is.  Measure it.

 

4: Cut Precisely

A small discrepency can make a HUGE difference when sewing a garment. Make sure you are not rushing through the cutting process to race to the sewing machine. I highly recommend using pattern weights and a rotary cutter and mat when cutting. You will get a much more accurate cut. Plus, once you’ve mastered the rotary cutter, you will save time on top of getting your precision cuts.

 

5: Change Needle Often

If you follow this blog, you will hear this one a lot from me.  It’s so true!  If your tension is off or your stitching is not coming out right, a majority of the time it can be blamed on the needle. Consequently, if the needle is fresh, you will likely avoid a lot of aggravation. Many seamstresses will change the needle in between every project. It’s not a bad habit to have.

 

6: Test Settings on Scrap Piece first

This is especially true when you are working with a fabric you don’t sew with frequently.  Testing your machine settings on a  scrap instead of on your actual garment will result in a higher quality finish. Getting the tension and stitch lengths right on lightweight and/or sheer fabrics, in particular, will definitely benefit from following this advice.

 

7: Pin/Clip When Needed

If you are an advanced seamstress, you may not feel the need to ever use pins. I admit, I don’t always use them.  But there are certain times when pins (or things like WonderClips) can greatly increase the quality of your garment. If you are a beginner, I highly recommend using pins/clips on every project. And even if you’re seasoned, make sure you’re pinning or clipping on curves at the very least. It helps maintain uniformity in your garment.

 

8: Use correct interfacing

Not all interfacing is created equal. There are woven, stretch, craft, lightweight, medium weight, heavy weight, and the list goes on. Most patterns will recommend the exact type of interfacing that you should use. Generally speaking, you should use a similar type and weight of interfacing as you are sewing with.  And most importantly, do NOT skip the interfacing. It is there to support the garment. Yes, you need it.

9: Make a muslin

Muslins are something that seem to be lost on the new seamstress. A muslin is basically a prototype of the garment that you make out of test fabric to check size and fit.  While you can sometimes get away with not sewing a muslin for children’s clothing and still have your garment turn out ok, it is very important when sewing for yourself to sew up a test garment first.  Plus, who wants to cut into that gorgeous fabric you’ve ben hoarding and have the garment not fit. Friends don’t let friends ruin awesome fabric.

10: Slow your Roll

I am super guilty of this. It seems like I’m always in a hurry and I’ve often got the petal to the metal when it comes to my sewing speed.  I get it.  You want to sew the garment for XYZ and you’ve only got a limited amount of time. Do you know what happens to me when I rush? I make mistakes. My seam ripper and I become best friends (and frankly, I wish we were not.) Sometimes slowing down and taking a little bit of extra time can really make a difference in your finished garment.

 

Do you have any other tips that could give you a better quality garment? Do you have questions about any of these tips? Let me know in the comments! And don’t forget to join our amazing Facebook group for support, sharing, and checking out other awesome projects that people are sewing!

How to Hide Seams in a Banded Hem

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This is for those of you who love the inside of a piece to be as pretty as the outside. Hiding the seam of a banded hem not only helps the look, but it can also avoid the irritation a seam can cause to a child, especially if that child has sensory issues. Want to know how to hide those seams? Keep reading and we’ll show you!

How to Hide Seams in a Banded Hem

For this tutorial, we’re going to use Juliet Flutter Dress as our example. This will work with any banded hem, though!

1.  Begin just after step 34 in the Juliet tutorial instructions.  The two skirt, two main skirt band, and skirt band lining pieces should be sewn at the short sides into loops. The main skirt band and skirt band lining should be sewn together at one long edge.

2. With the wrong side facing up, fold the edge of the skirt band lining up 3/8th of an inch. Press well.

3.  With right sides facing, line up the raw edges of the skirt and skirt band lining. Begin pinning at the side seams. Find the front and back mid point by lining up the side seam pins. Pin the front and back. Continue pinning around the skirt and skirt while evenly distributing the fabric between the pins.

4.  Sew with a 3/8″ seam allowance.

5.  Press the seam allowance down towards the skirt band.

6.  Fold the main skirt band up and press the seam between the two skirt band pieces.

7.  Bring the top edge of the main skirt band to the bottom edge of the skirt. Overlap the folded edge of the main skirt band and the seam allowance of the skirt and skirt band lining.

8. Pin together beginning with the sides/front/back as done previously on the skirt and skirt band lining.

9.  Topstitch using a 1/8″ seam allowance. Be sure to catch the top edge of the skirt band lining on the back.

10.  Give a final press to the seams.

Congratulations! The seams are now hidden and the skirt is ready for gathers.

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked pt. 2

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First of all, if you missed the first part of our glossary last week you can find it here. Now let’s wrap up the second half!

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked Pt. 2

Notions

Notions are small tools and accessories used in sewing. Most often used notions include buttons, thread, snaps, pins, seam rippers, etc.

Overlay

An overlay is usually a sheer type of fabric sewn over a lining or other opaque fabric for decorative purposes. Due to its decorative nature, it is used often in sewing special occasion clothing. Popular overlays include lace and chiffon.

Pattern

A pattern is a template and instruction used to sew garments and accessories. They can be found in print and downloadable PDF formats.

Piping

Piping is a type of trim that is often sewn into a seam to create a separation in the pieces and add a nice detail to a garment. It consists of a piece of cording sewn into the fold of a strip of fabric. This great detail is often used in the Josephine pattern that was recently released. Another great choice for piping would be the Tess Tulip shorts.

Placket

A placket is an opening in the top of a skirt or in a shirt that allows the garment to be put on more easily. Because of its functionality, Bella Sunshine uses plackets in most of the woven dress skirts and can also be found in Henley and button down shirts.

Pleat

A pleat is a means of folding fabric to make a long piece fit a smaller space. Many garments with a higher end look use pleats to replace simple gathering. As a matter of fact, Alice has some amazingly pretty pleats with easy to follow instructions, if you want to give it a try!

Quilt

Quilting is the practice of sewing designs into 2 pieces of fabric with a layer of batting (or insulation) between them. It is used to make blankets that are also called quilts but can also be used to make bags, wallets, and clothing.

Right Side

The front of a piece of fabric where a design is often printed. As a result, it is usually the outside of the garment.

Seam Allowance

The seam allowance is the measurement between the raw edge of the fabric and the stitch line. Different companies use different seam allowances, so always check your pattern before you start! A small discrepancy in a seam allowance can lead to HUGE fit issues in a finished piece, therefore, it pays to be especially careful of them.

Seam Ripper

A seam ripper seems like most seamstresses worst enemy and best friend, all rolled into one. Seam rippers have a sharp point and a tiny blade that allows you to remove seams more easily if you make a mistake. I, like most seamstresses, am very well acquainted with mine.

Selvage/Selvedge

The selvage is the edge of the fabric that does not fray (in wovens) and often runs from the top to bottom of the fabric’s pattern design. It will usually also include some information about the fabric such as the manufacturer and designer’s name. There are people who keep and stitch selvage edges together to create some pretty amazing pieces.

Thimble

A thimble is a small metal covering made to protect a sewist’s thumb when hand-stitching. (Guilty confession: I never use mine. As a result, I stab myself a LOT)

Wrong side

The wrong side of a fabric is the back side and is the opposite (obviously) of the front side. It will usually either be a solid color (most often white) or have a very faded version of the pattern on the fabric showing through. Consequently, this will usually be the inside of your garment, although a trend is currently going around where garments are being purposely sewn with the wrong sides on the outside.

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked pt. 1

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As a sewist, most of us follow a pattern. Within that pattern, there are instructions with sewing terms we might not necessarily know how to navigate. This post contains a small glossary that will help explain some of the more common sewing terms. I hope you learn something new today!

A Sewing Glossary, Unpacked (A to M)

Armscye:

The opening in a bodice that the arms go through. Where the sleeves attach to a sleeved pattern.

Baste:

To sew two pieces together with long stitches to hold them in place. A regular run of stitches is added after and basting stitches are usually removed.

Casing:

A tube made of the fabric for inserting a gathering option such as elastic or a drawstring.

Dart:

Most commonly found in women’s clothing. A dart is a wedge-shaped fold of fabric that is sewn to help shape the garment properly. Darts are most commonly found in the bust of women’s patterns or in the waist of other garments.

Facing:

A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish the edge of a garment opening, most notably a neckline or armscye. They are not the same as a lining as they typically are only a few inches long to the inside of the garment.

Gather:

Gathering is what happens most often with the skirt of a dress, where you pull together the top edge of a wide skirt to fit the width of a smaller bodice. There are several different methods for accomplishing this. The most widely known is to sew two lines of basting stitches parallel to each other within the seam allowance (leaving generous thread tails on both ends) and then pulling on the bobbin threads in order to evenly ruffle or gether the fabric to the desired width.

Hem:

A hem is the finish of the bottom of a garment or sleeve. A hem is made by folding the raw edge up twice and edge stitching along the first fold made. The width of a hem can range anywhere from 1/4″ to 1 1/2″ depending on the pattern.

Interfacing:

Interfacing is most usually a fusible fabric that is adhered to the wrong side of certain pattern pieces (such as facings, collars, waistbands, button plackets) to provide extra support and structure to that piece. You should never skip this particular piece or step when a pattern specifically calls for it, the structure and support is needed in these areas for the integrity of the garment.

Jersey:

Lightweight knit with 2-way (side to side) stretch is most commonly refered to as jersey. It’s perfect for making t-shirts.

Lining:

Unlike a facing, a lining covers the entire inside of a garment. Like a facing, a lining is used to finish the edges of openings and conceal the seams for a prettier more polished look. A lining creates a much more professional finish to a handmade piece.

Muslin:

Muslin has a couple of different meanings. First of all, it is a lighweight type of fabric. Secondly, it is the term used for creating a practice garment. The second meaning was derived from the first, because most practice pieces in history were made with the easy to find and inexpensive muslin fabric. When attempting a more ambitious design or fitted design, it is usually a good idea to start with a muslin, or pratice piece to ensure you have all fitting elements correct before using your good or more expensive fabrics.

 

I sincerely hope that this article has shed a little light on some terms for you. We will finish the alphabet next week, so I hope you’ll come back by to see it!

A Sale Is Coming! Don’t Miss it!

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Yes, you heard me! One of Bella Sunshine’s most popular sales ever! The Back To School Sale! It will start next week and feature two or more patterns a day throughout the week. Now, for the fun stuff!

A Sale Is Coming!

Do you want to know WHY I love Bella Sunshine back to school sales so much? Because they’re AWESOME! It’s a fabulous way to build a back to school wardrobe for the littles in your life. And BSD has some of the most adorable girl’s patterns I’ve ever had the pleasure of sewing. The vintage style is just perfect for school and church clothing.

A capsule wardrobe would be super easy too! A few coordinating fabrics in knit and woven, and you can do dresses, skirts, leggings, and shirts to match any of the other pieces! Pair a Maggie with Kelly’s. Put a Reagan together with Isabella. Make the perfect pair of Bow Tie Leggings to go with Josephine. The possibilities are endless.

My plans

My daughter starts 4k this year. It’s basically a public school preschool, for those who haven’t heard of it. She’s SO excited. And we’re busily planning all of the sewing I need to do before the beginning of school. Wanna know what’s on my list? Or rather, hers? We’ll be making a stack of Reagans and Maggies in solid colors. Another stack of Kelly’s and Isabella’s in fun prints. An Alice, and Adeline, and a new Juliet. And a stack of solid or fairly neutral Bow Tie Leggings. At least.Will your must haves be on this year’s sale list? You will have to wait and see!

We have a ton of fabrics already picked out. Mostly pinks with her being the princess that she is. I can say that some of my favorite memories are going to JoAnns or browsing the web with y girl while we ooh and ah and buy the fabrics she loves for some of my projects. She gets so involved in the process. She even has her own little broke down machine (no needle and not plugged in) that she uses to help ‘sew’ the scraps. She’s really too cute most days.

Surprise!

Just as a short aside, I thought you should know that this year’s sale will be a little different. This year, we’re including Ladies patterns too! How amazing is that? You can get yourself a new wardrobe while you’re planning for the kids! I can’t give you an exact schedule of what will be on sale when, but check out the pics below for a few sneak peeks!

Why Sew? I’ll Tell You!

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Are you looking for a new hobby? Or maybe you want to get a friend or family member into sewing? There are so many reasons to start! Let me give you some of the reasons that I started and will continue to sew.

Why Sew? I’ll Tell You!

It’s an investment in yourself.

Hobbies are generally good for mental health. Sewing has been around forever and it will never go out of style! Creating can give you a great sense of self and of accomplishment. You’ll feel pride at a job finished and well done. Yes, it costs money to start, but you’re worth it!

Boutique clothes, without the boutique prices.

One of the reasons I love to sew is my daughter. She’s a unique individual with specific tastes, even at 4 years old. We love the look of boutique clothes. The frills, the unique fabrics, the cutesy styles. But I cannot afford the price tag on those kinds of dresses.  So I sew. I can create those dresses at a fraction of the cost with some time and the right patterns. And my little girl eats it up.

Get special bonding time with your kids.

Bonding through a sewing hobby can happen in a few different ways. My kids are young enough right now that it comes in the form of us shopping together for fabrics that they want me to turn into various projects for them. Right now it’s clothing, bags, stuffies, other miscellaneous little things. When they get older, that bonding will come with me passing along my knowledge and teaching them how to sew. I look forward to those days very much. I dream of the day I can see the proud looks on their faces for creating something with their own hands.

Give inexpensive and meaningful gifts.

Ok, so inexpensive is subjective here, but depending on what you’re wanting to give, it generally is much cheaper than buying a similar quality sewn item already made. The magic of sewing gifts for your friends and family is undeniable. You can tailor things exactly to their tastes and give them something truly one of a kind. From fabric choices to the pattern used, to the little tweaks you can apply here and there. Your gift will be “them” and incredibly special. I don’t know of a single person who wouldn’t appreciate that!

Fabric shopping!

Ok, you knew I had to throw that one in. If you don’t sew or otherwise create, you miss out on a HUGE  shopping opportunity. I will admit, it’s one our non-sewing spouses don’t always understand or appreciate, but I find a lot of peace in a fabric store. And buying the perfect fabric for a specific project is sometimes just the self-care I need. Let’s face it, as expensive as it CAN be, it’s less expensive retail therapy than designer shoes and handbags (or power tools for the guys out there), right?

 

At the end of the day, when all is said and done, sewing is one of the great joys in my life. I delight in sharing that joy with others. So if I’ve convinced even one person to pick up a needle (or machine) with this blog post, I consider it a job well done. If you’re already sewing, or if you start, don’t be shy! Come join the Bella Sunshine community on Facebook! Share your projects, get help when you get stuck. ask opinions on fabric and embellishments… we would LOVE to see our sewing family grow!

7 Machine Stitches You Can’t Ignore

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Today we’ll be going over some of our favorite and most used sewing machine stitches. We’ll also discuss the best ways and places to use these stitches in various projects. Some of you may know them all. Some may know only a few. But we sincerely hope you learn something new today, so without further ado…

7 Machine Stitches You Can’t Ignore

Straight Stitch

A straight stitch is by far the most common and widely known stitch in the sewing world. It is the most basic way to machine stitch two pieces of fabric together. It is used for many things like piecing a quilt, sewing seams into a woven fabric project, topstitching, and under-stitching… the list goes on. (For example, you would use this stitch a lot in sewing the new Tess Tulip Shorts in ladies or girls sizes)

Zig-Zag Stitch

A zig-zag stitch is a common way to finish seams or sew knits on a less advanced sewing machine. A wide stitch sewn along the raw edge will keep the fabric from fraying. A narrow zig-zag used on a knit seam will allow it to stretch without breaking. Another thing I like to use this machine stitch for is the lettuce hem. A very wide and very short zigzag creates a satin stitch which is perfect for achieving the lettuce hem with a regular sewing machine.

Stretch Stitch

If you have a more advanced machine, you likely have machine stitches like this at your disposal. The icon for it will look a bit like a lightning bolt. This is the perfect stitch for sewing seams in knit fabrics. I use it every time I sew my daughter a Sahara or the Bow Tie Leggings. It’s a narrow unobtrusive stitch with a lot of stretch, which keeps the seams from popping open. If you have this one and haven’t tried it yet, you should. It will change your sewing life.

Overlock Stitch

This is the more advanced version of a finishing stitch. There are several different versions of an overlock stitch, but the one pictured is the one I use the most. I find that it does a better job of preventing fraying and makes for a cleaner, more professional looking finish than a traditional zig-zag. I use this for all of my projects, regardless of fabric type.

Blind Hem Stitch

This stitch is used for, you guessed it, a blind hem! While this one is a little more difficult to master, it does make for some beautiful hems. Practice makes perfect, and I promise this one will be well worth the time to figure out. It is primarily used for woven fabrics and the occasional stable knit. Alice is a good example of a pattern that makes use of a blind hem.

Double Needle Stitch

The double needle is mostly used for things like hemming knits and creating those perfect parallel lines while topstitching things like jeans. You can achieve this look by using a double needle with 2 spools of thread on top and one bobbin underneath with a straight stitch. It can be scary to start learning, but the end result is pretty awesome once you have it figured out. When using this stitch, the lines in the top of the fabric will be straight and parallel, while the bottom is zig-zagged and interconnected. It really is a cool and very professional look, if that’s what you’re aiming for.

Decorative Stitch

Decorative machine stitches can be a lot of fun. There are many different varieties and have many different uses. For example, I’ve used them in hemming, topstitching, general decoration, and they are often used in quilting. The styles range from daisy chains to what looks like a random squiggle. Experiment with them. You never know what you might fall in love with. Pictured here is a decorative shell stitch.

 

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

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Have you ever looked at a pattern and thought a really cute lace or pom-pom trim would look fabulous on it? Not sure how to accomplish that? Let us help you! Today, we’re bringing you a tutorial on how to add any of these embellishments to any hem! It might just add the perfect touch to those Tess Tulip Shorts (in Ladies and Girls sizing!) that you’ve been eyeing.

How To Add Trim To Any Hem

While this might seem like a tricky thing, it’s actually pretty simple. And once you’ve done it once or twice, you’ll be a pro at adding trim to just about any pattern in your arsenal to make it extra special!

Step One: Create a Memory Hem

Using the pattern’s instructions, fold your hem and iron it in place, creating creases where the hem will eventually be. In the case of the Tess Tulip shorts, that hem is two 1/4″ folds, pictured.

Step Two: Place and Pin Trim in Place

With the hem folded, place your trim (here, my lace) where how you would like it to lay on the wrong side of the garment. Carefully unfold the hem and pin the lace (or pompoms or ricrac) in place through a single layer of fabric. The trim that will be peeking from beneath your hem should be pointed toward the main body of your garment. Carefully sew along the edge of your trim through the single layer of fabric. These stitches will keep it perfectly in place for the final step.

Step Three: Adding the Hem

Now that you have the decorative part in place, the rest is easy peasy. Just fold along the creases you created in step one and stitch into place like you normally would! I personally love lace but have seen some amazing pom-pom and ric-rac added to hems for some phenomenal pieces as well. Be creative! Have a blast! And make everything beautiful and uniquely yours!

The Dos of Pattern Testing

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Pattern testing is a huge part of getting a great fitting quality pattern on the market. To get the patterns perfect, designers depend on awesome testers. Those testers test fit, read and follow directions for clarity and mistakes, and provide the designer with valuable feedback. If you’ve ever thought about testing, read this so you’ll know exactly what to do. (And if you haven’t read our list of Don’ts from last week. You should give it a peek, you won’t regret it.)

The Dos of Pattern Testing

Only sign up if you can commit & don’t forget to read the pinned post.

Pattern designers depend on reliable testers who can complete the work in a certain time frame. Sometimes those time frames are tight. Sometimes you will be required to sew multiple versions. The first (or second) draft might have minor (or major) fit issues. That is the nature of testing, as it takes trial and error to get it just right. Before you commit to testing a pattern, make sure you know the time and fabric expectations and are ok with it. The pinned post typically houses all of these expectations with other important information, so don’t skip it, read it!

Always sew the size you were assigned and blend if needed.

Almost all pattern designers are very intent on getting their fit “just right” for their listed measurements. This accuracy depends on YOUR accuracy in sewing the correct size, which means blending sizes if the designer requests it. A successful pattern brand depends on a consistently good fit. Pattern testers are a key force in ensuring that happens.

Read and follow the directions exactly.

Another very important part of testing is in making sure the directions make sense and don’t have any typos. As such, most designers ask that you do a complete read through of the tutorial before ever touching a piece of fabric or pair of scissors. Make note of any glaring mistakes and ask about any steps that seem out of order or don’t make sense before you begin. Also, do NOT alter the pattern design in any way outside of the size blending and follow directions to a tee. Only by following pieces and construction EXACTLY will any problems be found. Any information you gather during the construction will provide some much-needed information for the designer to perfect the pattern before its release.

Give detailed feedback.

Don’t be afraid to nitpick. A great pattern designer will use those notes to the benefit of the pattern. “Don’t sweat the small stuff” doesn’t apply to pattern testing. Sweat it. Mention everything, and I mean everything. You never know what might be important to the overall fit and design. Trust me, the designer wants to hear it all.

Take good fit pics, it’s crucial!

Considering most testing is done by people all over the world, fit pictures are crucial to getting pattern dimensions just right. A clear uncluttered background is great. A blank wall is even better. The model should stand straight, square to the camera for a front shot. It is recommended to take pics with arms out as well as arms down to get the best idea of fit in tops and dresses. It is also very helpful to the designer to get those same poses from the side and back. The more they can see, the better any alterations will be. Another handy tip- If your model has long hair, make sure that hair is out of the way in each shot.

When you post your fit pictures, overshare.

Every piece of information you have, you should state with the fit pics. Again, there is NO such thing as too much information when it comes to pattern testing. Things you definitely want to state are the size you sewed (including any minor alterations or size blending you did), the type of fabric you used, the model’s measurements (including height), and any perceived fit issues you find once the garment is finished and being worn. Anything can be used to improve the pattern quality, so let it all out!

Be polite within the testing group.

You will likely get comments on your questions and pictures from the designer, their admins, or other testers. You might not agree with all of the opinions, but it is important to the environment of the group that it stays a happy and positive place. Comments to criticisms can always be made in a polite manner. Just try to keep it civil. Pattern designers don’t usually like rude testers. Happy and kind makes for a much more supportive and helpful group.

Always use an iron.

Final pictures should always include a freshly pressed garment. Those pictures should convey a professional finished look to the piece with wrinkles gone so everything lays pretty and any knit seams laying flat instead of wavy. A good iron is one of your best friends when it is time to show off your finished work.

Phenomenal final pictures are always welcome!

Not everyone has access to a professional camera or photographer, but that doesn’t mean great pictures are out of your reach! Many phones today have fantastic cameras and can take pretty great pics.

There are a few key tips to taking great final pictures. The model’s clothes should be pressed nicely and the model should be clean and styled. Neatly brushed or styled hair and a few accessories never hurt, as long as it doesn’t take away from the garment. Natural light is your friend and is the best light for picking up detail. Just don’t stand in direct sunlight! Indirect light is your best bet. Find a clear uncluttered background. Nature makes a beautiful backdrop, and as long as your garment isn’t green, it should stand out nicely. Other good options are tall wooden fences or pretty front doors. Just make sure your model (and the product) pop in front of it.

 

If you follow these tips, you’ll find yourself asked to test again and again! And I don’t know about you, but I always feel amazing helping a designer release a perfect pattern. And you can say “I helped with that!” It’s a great feeling.

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